Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a HKS SSQV atm dump valve and power fc in my rb25det, I'm having problems with the engine stalling when I rev it then push the clutch and let go of the throttle. It often happens in stoplight crossing etc and is really annoying.

Is there any settings in PowerFC I can adjust to make it stable when falling down towards idle? I've tried rising the idle rev up to 1k rpm but it does not help.

Is the only fix to resirk the dumped air back after the maf? I've heard you can tighten the ssqv spring?

So this is something a dyno tuner can fix when they map the powerfc?

what do you mean "get a real bov", it is a genuine HKS SSQV, not a ebay fake. I also bought the resirk kit but have not installed it since because it will be about 1.5meter with 35mm air hose to resirkulate the air back to the inlet after the maf.

#1

map tracer

repeat the stall

then tune those areas it runs across when it stalls

or

#2

get a real bov

#2 is easier

There is a quick, free fix. Put the stock BOV back on.

Thats what Paul means by a real BOV, one thats actually designed for a purpose :D

A tuner can tune out the stalling if they know what they are doing.

2 seconds with the datalogit and i gaurantee no stalling no matter what bov. It is all a matter of catching the idle.... bit of timing tweaking and fuel fiddling and all will be sweet.

Yep reall BOV well one that recirculates or "plumbs back" into the intake after the afm and before the compressor, problem solved, although it can be tuned out aswell but as mentioned recirc is easier

The original GTS25t bov is rumored to leak above 1bar boost, so I bought the HKS ssqv. I have the resirkulation kit but I kinda fell in love with the atm dump sound :D I just got the engine up and running after a complete rebuild so im taking it to a dyno tuner shop next week. I only now how to set up the basic settings in powerfc to make sure it runs on safe AFR values and not leans out.

So then it is settled, I'll let the tuners program powerfc with a laptop and the stalling problem will be solved!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...