Power Window Blues

[alienracer]

I need some help with a problem I am experiencing with my 4-door Skyline. The problem is with the driver side power window.

A while ago when I rolled the window down I would hear a whirring sound after the window was completed wound down. Thought that it might be the power window motor going bad and after the window not rolling up on a few occasions, I went and bought a new motor and had that installed.

Now the same problem exists with the new motor. You can wind the window down however the motor doesn't disengage and you hear a whirring sound even though it has reached the bottom on the door. When I try winding the window back up, it moves up for a few inches and then stops. Does wind up completely and there is still the annoying whirring sound. You have to tap the control switch to actually stop it from whirring and probably burning the motor out.

I changed the master control switch as I had a spare one and the problem still exists. Through it might have been a problem with the tracks for the window not being lubricated enough. Bought some of that super slick silicone lubricant and gave the tracks a liberal blast. No luck with either of the two.

I was wondering if there is a relay that controls the window and for some reason the motor is not getting enough current to wind the window up. It probably works going down as it is acting with gravity and takes some of the load off of the motor. I tried looking for a power window schematic online but I haven't found anything yet.

Is there anyone who can assist me with this problem?

A mate of mine had a similar problem and a new motor fixed his problem. Sigh, mine had to be more complex.

All help appreciated.

[[mez]]

I have a slightly similar problem with my 2 door

My window goes up fine but i can hear it clicking like its still trying to go up (or down when at bottom), even though its already as far up (or down) as it can go. I can stop it by tapping the up or down button once. It only happens on auto-up and down function. Mine doesn't make a whirring noise though.

Was going to replace the switch box and see how that goes.

Anybody know if there is an 'initialisation' procedure you can perform on the power windows at all, to let the motor know its end stops?

[alienracer]

Yup. It is the auto up/down feature that I experience the problem with. The whirring noise I am referring to is the sound of the motor seemingly trying to turn. Did some more research last night and I believe the problem is isolated to either wiring or a control relay(if any) for the window. Retested both master control switches and window motors and the same thing is happening for both.

Today I will try and see if I can trace anything.

[alienracer]

I pulled down the entire driver side door, checked that there were no broken or stripped wires. I finally came to the conclusion that the assembly for the auto p/w is faulty. Haven't been able to test it yet however I have removed it from the car and asked a buddy to borrow his to see if the problem still exists.

Have attached photos of the nasty device. Completely sealed so I can't open it to see if anything has burnt out on the inside

[alienracer]

Ok guys n gals I am thoroughly stuck right about now. Here is an outline of the things that I have done so far:

1. Checked wiring for breaks, arcing wires and stripped wires.

2. Checked power window motor (x2)

3. Checked master control switch (x2)

4. Check power window amp (x2)

5. Greased the runners for the window

After doing all of that my problem still exists. I really don't know what could be going on.

Have checked the window assembly gearing to make sure it is meshing with the motor gear properly.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

[negoshi8or]

I pulled down the entire driver side door, checked that there were no broken or stripped wires. I finally came to the conclusion that the assembly for the auto p/w is faulty. Haven't been able to test it yet however I have removed it from the car and asked a buddy to borrow his to see if the problem still exists.

Have attached photos of the nasty device. Completely sealed so I can't open it to see if anything has burnt out on the inside

Open up this box - you can do it with a flat screwdriver or two.

In the box IS THE PROBLEM. There are some solenoids in the box that control the auto up/down.

The solenoids are large and heavy, and so the constant opening and closing of the doors has "shocked" the PCD (circuit board) so that the solder joints for the solenoids have cracked.

Open it up and you will see some hairline cracks - they maybe almost impossible to see. re solder these cracked joints and your problems will be solved.

[alienracer]

Open up this box - you can do it with a flat screwdriver or two.

In the box IS THE PROBLEM. There are some solenoids in the box that control the auto up/down.

The solenoids are large and heavy, and so the constant opening and closing of the doors has "shocked" the PCD (circuit board) so that the solder joints for the solenoids have cracked.

Open it up and you will see some hairline cracks - they maybe almost impossible to see. re solder these cracked joints and your problems will be solved.

Went by a buddy who opened the box and checked it out for me. He had a similar problem, which as you mentioned was due to

dry joints in the soldering. There weren't any such problems with the circuit board in my box. I even got another buddy to lend me the amplifier box from his S13 and I had the same problem. The window would go down, but not come back up.

We even connected the exposed board to the door and watched the solenoids open and close perfectly each time the switch was operated.

[Bass Junky]

I have a similar problem.

My passenger side window will only go up when it's cold outside.

When it's cold on winter mornings, it will work fine, until I start driving, a few minutes after leaving the house, it damn thing wont go up :@

I've just switched it off with the window lock button for a while, but on the weekend my son put it down a bit

So, I'm going to pull the doors apart and fix what is probably a dry solder (due to it working in different temperature conditions) but I need to know if there are one or two control boxes....

Is there one in each door, or just a single in the drivers door?

Also, if I can't fix, are the R34 control boxes the same as R32, R33 or other Nissans?

All help appreciated.

BASS OUT

[Bass Junky]

I fixed mine today at lunch time.

Pulled the drivers door skin off and removed the little control module.

Opened it up, found there to be a little bit of corrosion on the PCD.

Used an eraser and removed that corrosion.

Put it all back together, and whizz bang she's all fixed.