Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As alot of people know the R33 has a very annoying axle tramp off the line.I dont know if this has been covered before but how can i get rid of it?

Im getting a set of pineapples for the rear but surely this alone wont stop it.

Now this is close to my heart.I have asked this question a few times myself.I installed pinapples and this reduced it somewhat but was still almost the same.Replaced the springs and shocks with kings springs and much improved shocks but only a little better again.Still,a worth while improvement.Replaced the wheels with light weight ones and you guessed it,only a slight improvement.After spending what was now a few thousand dollars I was stopping the rear end from trying to rip itself out of the bushes so then replaced the bushes with whiteline ones and this was yet another step in the right direction.

So I went to some people in the hot rodding scene and found that they had great success with urathane diff mounting.This means the subframe as well.You see a solid diff is difficult to control due to it`s weight but an IRS has far more mounting points,each one of which has the potential to move under accelleration causing the tyres to bite then skip repeat,repeat etc. etc......My next step is to replace the subframe bushes with urathane and the diff mounts as well.I have a strong feeling this will eliminate axle tramp all together.I know CUBES did this so would be interested to hear if it affected his 32.HEY CUBES,you reading this?

  skylinecouple said:
Now this is close to my heart.I have asked this question a few times myself.I installed pinapples and this reduced it somewhat but was still almost the same.Replaced the springs and shocks with kings springs and much improved shocks but only a little better again.Still,a worth while improvement.Replaced the wheels with light weight ones and you guessed it,only a slight improvement.After spending what was now a few thousand dollars I was stopping the rear end from trying to rip itself out of the bushes so then replaced the bushes with whiteline ones and this was yet another step in the right direction.

So I went to some people in the hot rodding scene and found that they had great success with urathane diff mounting.This means the subframe as well.You see a solid diff is difficult to control due to it`s weight but an IRS has far more mounting points,each one of which has the potential to move under accelleration causing the tyres to bite then skip repeat,repeat etc. etc......My next step is to replace the subframe bushes with urathane and the diff mounts as well.I have a strong feeling this will eliminate axle tramp all together.I know CUBES did this so would be interested to hear if it affected his 32.HEY CUBES,you reading this?

Thanks Gary atleast now i know what to tackle.Looks like ill be buying alot of urathane lol

Sydney kid, One day u have to come help me fix my axle tramp. Ive been trying for years to get rid of it to no avail. Been to suspension shops, tried different tyres, installed pineapples, and was about to change shocks and springs.

It just never wants to go away

I replaced my subframe bushes and found axle tramp has reduced greatly and torque steer feeling through second gear has completely dissapeared; on the dyno the whole sub frame was moving around a hell of a lot.

Most of the time it doesn't axle tramp but when it does its now a light little thud not like the old BANG BANG BANG your going to break an axle bang. :S

The subframe bushes Improved axle tramp 10 fold. I am still on stock shocks and springs as almost everything aftermarket is lowered which I don't want. Minimum legal height here in SA is 360mm mine sits ~365mm with stock bits.

I'm considering a set of teins as they have the screw type heigh adjustment that can be adjusted to stock/legal height.

What about the traction rods? I had a look at mine and they do feel a 'tad' loose, possibly the bush is stuffed which causes tramp. Reading up on them 'apparently' traction rods in good nick prevent tramp?

Nisskid,

A mate of mine runs the bilsteins and they are still too low. Unfortunately he has recently been defected because it was too low. From memory the front was too low 10mm and rear 5mm.

If you look and ask everyone who's been defected and what for its almost always.. 1. too low 2. tint 3. too loud

I've almost been done for tint so I removed it on the spot. Height, even though it looks stock a tape measure was put to it.

Its simply not worth the hassle.

Are yours on the highest setting? Are you able to measure the front and rear heights?

  Cubes said:
Nisskid,

A mate of mine runs the bilsteins and they are still too low. Unfortunately he has recently been defected because it was too low. From memory the front was too low 10mm and rear 5mm.

If you look and ask everyone who's been defected and what for its almost always.. 1. too low 2. tint 3. too loud

I've almost been done for tint so I removed it on the spot. Height, even though it looks stock a tape measure was put to it.

Its simply not worth the hassle.

Are yours on the highest setting? Are you able to measure the front and rear heights?

rear sits on just 340, the fronts sit about 350, that is the reccomended setting but not the highest, i beleive there are 2-3 grooves above this one which are a bit under 10mm apart. i have the extra grooves but most are for lowering it further, if i put mine on the highest setting i reckon it would sit a bit above standard height which is with lowered springs. id talk to SK about it but pretty sure the bilsteins with extra grooves would be more than enough to keep standard height.

Where the rear end of the car, on a launch will basically "bounce" and is then hard to get the power down and at the drags, will ruin your pass basically!

  evil_weevil said:
Where the rear end of the car, on a launch will basically "bounce" and is then hard to get the power down and at the drags, will ruin your pass basically!

Is the bilstein setup that SydneyKid sells good/stiff enough to prevent this?

Do good grippy tires help prevent it too?

To be honest - I myself havent had much axel tramp issues in this car. My old VT LS1 commodore had major issues - was a biatch to drive :laugh:

Since I've had the syd kid group buy springs/shocks in my car Ive only done one night at WSID drags and had a little bit, but I think that was due to my "hard launch" (1 launch out of 5) - done a few motokharna's where you need to get a good launch for a good time - no a/t at all

Tyres - I guess? but Im not 100% sure - I used semis for the first time last weekend at DECA for a motokharna and had no issues

So in my case - 98% of the time - I havent had it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...