Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Seamus (Toxin) and myself have spent all of today trying to work out/ fix what is wrong with sammys (my sister)'s rb20 in her silvia. first of all lets start back yesterday after noon. here we are leaving springwood area on the m1, crusing along fine when we loose all accellerator and car just idles down the highway. we pull over and have a play around with the coils etc. we manage to get it going enough to get it home (it was also low on fuel at the time).

We barley get home and are pretty stumped, although we still thought it was runing on 1 or less cylinders (sounded like a wrx). yesterday we replaced.

Fuel filter,

Spark plugs,

cleanded afm,

got a new vaccum line from bov to plenum,

got some fuel in it,

new battery,

cleaned throttle body.

made sure the coils were all on properly.

So here we are late last night after doing all of this, finally puttin everything backtogether after changing all that stuff. go to turn on the motor, and yep you guessed it we start it and it still sounds like a wrx. seamus and i being pretty pissed off we just left it and came to the conclusion that it was one of the coils being f**ked. the car sat overnight and we said we would go and get some brand new fresh indivual BOSCH coils, we were up for a bill, but was a good idea having leads instead of those shithouse stock ones.

This morning we headed out to repco and got the new 6 bosch coils for the rb. then went to supercheap and grabed 6 leads, went home and spent a couple of hours wiring them etc.

After those hours we got everthing back together installed the 6 coils all neat and tidy in the top right of the bay and ran the leads to there appropriate cylinders, put all the intercooler piping back on etc and went to start it and bang, idles alot better at 900rpm (due to better igniton from good coils) but yep still sounds like a wrx.

we werent very happy but still tryed to narrow it down. went on to sau and looked up any other possibiltys, came across the AAV valve, about an hour ago i pulled this off and cleaned it and bolted it back on. start it and yep wrx, although this time it would act normal for a bit then go all wrx again? so it became intermitant. :ohsnap:

ill just relist everything we have changed since yesterday.

- Fuel filter

- Spark plugs

- Cleaned afm

- Fresh Bosch coils and leads

- New Battery

- New fuel

- Cleaned throttle body

- New vaccum line from bov to plenum

- Cleaned AAC VALVE

- Checked fuel pump.

This pretty much leaves us to the Ignitor. and also the fact it cant be internal because it is intermitant. we are desperate to know you guys thoughts on this drama, weve just about had it lol. What could it be apart from this, dont wanna waste anymore money.

Any helpful replys VERY MUCH APPRICIATED!!!!!

thanks alot guys, sorry about the short novel :D

PEACE,

ROBO>

4AGE > RB20

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168294-rb20-dramas/
Share on other sites

sounds like an injector might have shat itself.....

find out which cyl has dropped by taking the coils off one by one... then remove the injector from that cyl and put in another cyl... see if the cyl u put the injector on dies or if the origional one is shit house....

same thing happened to mine, i thought id lost compression but it was just a injector shit itself, and yes it happened instantly...

remove the fuel lines from the rail...

undo the 2 bolts holding the rail to the motor.... move the fuel rail back wards.. or even disconnect each injector and pull the fuel rail out towards the front of the car...

the 3 back injectors are plugged into the rail, the 3 front are on the engine....

try that let me know how u go....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168294-rb20-dramas/#findComment-3112123
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Selling a genuine Nissan Skyline R33 Coupe 8-Pin Power Window Master Switch Part No. 25401-26U10 Price $300   IMPUL Gear Knob – Rare JDM Upgrade Upgrade your interior with this genuine IMPUL gear knob – a rare and stylish addition to any JDM build. Premium quality, perfect fit, and an authentic Japanese touch for your ride.  Price:$300 Nissan Skyline R33 (Series 2) Sedan Tail Lights Immaculate Condition OEM JDM S2 a pair of OEM Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state. Price:$900   Located in Melbourne (Western Suburbs) – Shipping available Australia wide at buyer’s expense. DM if you need anymore details.  
    • KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability. Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....? As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?
    • That's not very Toyota of the Toyota!
    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
    • LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months.   Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.
×
×
  • Create New...