Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I know that the factory speakers are 6.5in with a depth of 57mm.

However I am looking at a pair of speakers, the Polk Momo 650, and they have a depth of 61.8mm.

I am looking to run a set of these both in the front and the rear of my GTR33.

I am wondering if the extra 5mm will fit in there with little issue? Or do I really need to find a different speaker with less depth?

Thanks a lot for the help guys!

-Sayajin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168333-will-a-618mm-depth-fit-in-a-gtr33/
Share on other sites

I've never pulled my door panels off yet, so i dont know what's behind them,

But when you add the 6mm MDF Spacer, wont this push the speaker out into the speaker grill? Or is there empty space between the speaker and the grill normally, which you make use of?

Edited by Trav33

easier to remake the pod. then you can fit whatever you need to. in regard to the polk speakers. 20mm total thickness will do it. be sure when you make the new pods that you put the pocket end back on.

Chris, are you talking about the pod inside the door, removing that and making custom?

yep. when you pull one apart next have a close look at it. what I am saying will then make sense.

mine even reuse the stock mounting bolts.

tried the way you do them got a complaint that a garage remote went into the door so I changed how I did them. no hassles now.

the R33 that i put the Alpines into had the factory pods, we made a 6mm speaker ring to sit inside that. took 10min max to make a cardboard template, trace that onto the MDF, cut the MDF, sand the edges to get rid of the flash, and screw straight in with the speaker - into the factory holes.

only reason we took the factory pod off was to put sound deadening on the door and inside the door.

ok I see what you are doing. they won't clear the back of the pod. for a 6.25" (IE alpine) that would work. when you put a 6.75 (IE VDO or Blau) it doesn't. thats why I remake that pod. the MTX ones will drop into those holes easily as well. done a few of those.

ok I see what you are doing. they won't clear the back of the pod. for a 6.25" (IE alpine) that would work. when you put a 6.75 (IE VDO or Blau) it doesn't. thats why I remake that pod. the MTX ones will drop into those holes easily as well. done a few of those.

as a second for this..

the vdo mps1700 splits sound great in an r33 and offer awesome bang for buck

ok I see what you are doing. they won't clear the back of the pod. for a 6.25" (IE alpine) that would work. when you put a 6.75 (IE VDO or Blau) it doesn't. thats why I remake that pod. the MTX ones will drop into those holes easily as well. done a few of those.

whats the mounting depth of VDO and Blau (havnt installed them as yet) I know Fusion 6" are bloody deep, probably a smidge deeper then Type R's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...