Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Hopefully someone can help me out or let me know if they have seen this before.

Ok i have GReddy Profec B-spec II boost controller & recently purchased the GReddy Remote Switching System so it can be attached to the steering wheel to be able to flick the controller between low and high boost at the push of a button without having my hand(s) leave the steering wheel or gear knob ......

Now the problem i am experiencing is when its all plugged in it doesnt seem to work at all ..... at first we thought it was the switching system but i went back to the shop i bought it from and we tried a few of them with the same result.

What happens is as soon as you plug the switching system into the back of the profec B (it looks like a simple headphone jack .... no other wiring required at all) .... the controller beeps and flicks over to high boost ..... then when i push the button on the switching system it wont flick back to low boost ...... the light on the button lights up when its pressed but the light on the transmittor doesnt seem to turn on at all .....

Now after trying a few with the same result the shop concluded that my controller must be a dud and there is nothing wrong with the switching system. I am hopefully meeting up with a friend in a week or 2 as he has a profec B which he bought from a completely different shop to me to see how the switching system reacts with his profec B but i was wanting to know if anyone else has experienced this ? or is there something else i need to do ? Any help would be much appreciated.

This is what the switching system looks like http://www.alamomotorsports.com/greddy/grprofecremote.htm

The profec B manual can be downloaded from here http://www.alamomotorsports.com/greddy/PROFEC_B_SPEC2.pdf although i've read it end to end and there is no mention about any extra steps required. The remote switching system simply plugs into the socket number 7 seen on page 14.

Edited by xooming

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
    • To be fair - you see the same thing for every clutch. There's always someone making an installation error.
    • Just saw this, redacted names. It's on a R33 GTS-t Facebook group. Looks like still teething issues.
×
×
  • Create New...