Jump to content
SAU Community

what u guys think of $50 bosch bov's?

Guest RaBZ3174

By Guest RaBZ3174,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

2fardown Experienced

2fardown

Posted
Posted

Blow off valves are blow off valves. Purchasing an aftermarket brand name BOV doesn't always mean its a quality product. Leave your stock one on unless its leaking. There is no performance gain in adding an aftermarket one. Save up for a worth while modification that you will benefit from.

Sorry didn't answer your question very well. Yes the Bosch BOV's are decent. I had a friend with one installed on his VL Turbo and it was loud. Did everything a BOV was supposed to do.

Zensoku Collaborator

Zensoku

Posted
Posted

boys boys boys. The Bosch BOV is a great blowoff valve, CAPA actually use two of these on all of their aftermarket Supercharger kits for Commodores, Falcons & Nissans - 6's and 8's...

Volvo, Saab and even some other european turbo cars use these from the factory...

I will only say this once: A BOV will only work best at holding pressures when it is mounted in the proper the location, (before throttle body is best) and whether or not it's vacuum line is receiving the same boost signal as the boost pressure that is trying to push the BOV open... This will ensure the BOV remains shut (no leaks) when both sides of the chamber have equal pressures. When you let your foot off the pdeal, the boost signal travelling along the vacuum line suddenly disappears (closed throttle, no positive pressure in the manifold) forcing the BOV open by the boost pressure trying to get past the throttle butterfly(s). Simple. No S*** i hear you say...

Well most factory BOV's leak because they are usually located after the turbo and before the intercooler, therefore when you increase the boost, the pressure drop across the restrictive intercooler core causes a lower than expected boost pressure to travel along the vacuum line (from the manifold) to the BOV, which causes it to leak.

The Bosch BOV is going to be exactly the same as your original BOV, but offers people an option when they are going to have a different inlet piping and want to ditch the stock setup. It's more functional rather than w**k value compared to other aftermarket valves, i reckon. Can be either rigged up to vent atmospherically or be plumbed back to the intake.

Part# 0 280 142 103 and can be bought for under $50 if you're lucky and know someone who has an account with Robert Bosch..

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

to have the bosch bov venting to atmo without an AIR FLOW METER's car stalling, you will need to modify the bosch bov with a one way valve.

otherwise you MUST have it plumb back (unless your car doesn't have an air flow meter.)

if anyone wants details on how to make the bosch bov able to vent to atmo, I can post a link.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • McGarryR32
      T56 In Gtr

      By McGarryR32 · Posted

      Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...