Jump to content
SAU Community

what u guys think of $50 bosch bov's?


Recommended Posts

Blow off valves are blow off valves. Purchasing an aftermarket brand name BOV doesn't always mean its a quality product. Leave your stock one on unless its leaking. There is no performance gain in adding an aftermarket one. Save up for a worth while modification that you will benefit from.

Sorry didn't answer your question very well. Yes the Bosch BOV's are decent. I had a friend with one installed on his VL Turbo and it was loud. Did everything a BOV was supposed to do.

boys boys boys. The Bosch BOV is a great blowoff valve, CAPA actually use two of these on all of their aftermarket Supercharger kits for Commodores, Falcons & Nissans - 6's and 8's...

Volvo, Saab and even some other european turbo cars use these from the factory...

I will only say this once: A BOV will only work best at holding pressures when it is mounted in the proper the location, (before throttle body is best) and whether or not it's vacuum line is receiving the same boost signal as the boost pressure that is trying to push the BOV open... This will ensure the BOV remains shut (no leaks) when both sides of the chamber have equal pressures. When you let your foot off the pdeal, the boost signal travelling along the vacuum line suddenly disappears (closed throttle, no positive pressure in the manifold) forcing the BOV open by the boost pressure trying to get past the throttle butterfly(s). Simple. No S*** i hear you say...

Well most factory BOV's leak because they are usually located after the turbo and before the intercooler, therefore when you increase the boost, the pressure drop across the restrictive intercooler core causes a lower than expected boost pressure to travel along the vacuum line (from the manifold) to the BOV, which causes it to leak.

The Bosch BOV is going to be exactly the same as your original BOV, but offers people an option when they are going to have a different inlet piping and want to ditch the stock setup. It's more functional rather than w**k value compared to other aftermarket valves, i reckon. Can be either rigged up to vent atmospherically or be plumbed back to the intake.

Part# 0 280 142 103 and can be bought for under $50 if you're lucky and know someone who has an account with Robert Bosch..

to have the bosch bov venting to atmo without an AIR FLOW METER's car stalling, you will need to modify the bosch bov with a one way valve.

otherwise you MUST have it plumb back (unless your car doesn't have an air flow meter.)

if anyone wants details on how to make the bosch bov able to vent to atmo, I can post a link.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...