Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive just built a sub box for my R34 today and thought i'd share the design. I wanted a couple of things out of this box:

- be a suitable volume for a pair of JL Audio 10W0's

- fit snugly enough in the boot so that it was rigidly in place without tying down or bolting in

- removable

- utilise the awkward boot shape effectively

- not require any modification to the boot area

I measured the boot and came up with the following dimensions:

post-28052-1178956578_thumb.jpg

H1 = 190mm = the distance from the floor carpet to the little rise on the mid shelf on the right hand side

H2 = 210mm = the distance from the rise on the right to the underneath of the wiper motor cover

W = 700mm = the distance between the top of the left strut tower and the big rise on the right of the mid shelf

So the box needs to look something like this (hidden detail not shown):

post-28052-1178956772_thumb.png

D = 350mm = arbitrarily chosen to give the desired box volume.

I made a cardboard mock-up to test the fit:

post-28052-1178956806_thumb.jpg

And proceeded to make the box with those dimensions:

post-28052-1178956926_thumb.jpg

post-28052-1178956951_thumb.jpg

post-28052-1178956976_thumb.jpg

The box is ~60ltrs internal, which is just enough volume for those 2 subs in a sealed enclosure. To be sure i didn't lose any volume, i mounted the drivers inverted and stuffed the box with pillow-fill. The amp filled the space on the right side and the fire extinguisher will fit on the left.

If you want to make the same from 16mm MDF, the piece dimensions I used are:

Sides - 350mm(D) x 400mm (H) with a chunk taken out on the bottom/back of 140(D) x 190(H)

Top - 668(W) x 350(D)

Front - 668(W) x 368(D)

Bottom1 - 668(W) x 140(D)

Bottom2 - 668(W) x 210(D)

Back1 - 668(W) x 178(H)

Back2 - 668(W) x 190(H)

When measuring pieces for a box this shape, don't forget:

a) take into account the width of the MDF! (hence the strange piece measurements)

b) make sure the pieces that create the concave back overlap on the inside, so there's solid wood-to-wood on that join.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168399-sub-box-design-for-an-r34-boot/
Share on other sites

Commendable effort, I like the way you shaped it into a L shape to use the most amount of space possible. Does the rear speaker magnets get in your way at all?

the rear speakers are tucked up higher than the wiper motor, so they're not a problem....not that they actually DO anything with a bloody baby seat anchor through their cones!

would look awesome if you made a board of mdf to cover the wheel wheel bits and covered it in carpet of vynal .. then will look customish :)

nice deign btw.. I installed a amp rack in the same design .. Im trying to do a wheel well sub enclosure .. shit im bad at fibreglass

Dsc00545.jpg

Edited by DECIM8

question for decim8.

seeing as you have a alpine and a fusion amp. I'm guessing the alpine rins the front/rears, the fusion nv class the subs.

Have you noticed a large turn on bang through the subs every time the system is powered up?

would look awesome if you made a board of mdf to cover the wheel wheel bits and covered it in carpet of vynal .. then will look customish :)

the wheel bits? You mean the floor over the spare tyre? There is already the standard floor of carpeted chipboard over the tyre, which is neat enough.

PS: i'm a function-over-form man myself, so anything that's not related to the function of the speakers prolly wont be added.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
    • You can get them with the worm drive rotator but I was too tight to pay another $250-$300 so manual labour it is! I don't think it will be too hard to rotate though. 
    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...