Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use to own a s13 silvia, I rember that u had to screw the callipers on the back 2 brakes. I think to screw them in u screw them clockwise. I used a pair of long nosed plyers to do this, Had to be carefull of the rubber boot. Not sure what the skylines have for their back brakes setup, have not pulled my back wheels of yet. They sure will be a different type but may work the same, i'd imagine. check If there are to little notches on oppisite sides of the calliper. Cus that's what i used to screw the calliper back on the s13.

Its nearly 12 months since I did them on mine, and I'm pretty sure I just pushed the pistons back in.

The Skylines use a 2-pot caliper on the rear - how would you get the appropriate tool onto the piston if you had to screw it back in?

ok guys im with you now, because its a 2 pot caliper set up they have to push in. the reason i said screwed in was all the other cars i have done the rears screwed in but then i thought all the others where single piston!!!!

Actually, belly_up is probably closer - only those calipers that incorporate the handbrake have the screw-in type piston. My R30 has screw-in piston, Peugot 504 has screw-in piston. Both are single-pot, but both incorporate the handbrake into the caliper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 🤣👍   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
×
×
  • Create New...