Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know if you would get a defect for any of them, however I guess its up to the discretion of who ever decides to pull u over.

One way you could go about it tho is get an engineers report... thats what I did with my old car and I had no problems!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168484-buying-new-bits/#findComment-3113915
Share on other sites

Im buying some new bit's for my r33 over the next few week's and just want to know if these parts will give me a defect.

CUSCO BRAKE STOPPER

CUSCO AIR DIVERSION PLATE

CUSCO SWAY BAR

CUSCO ENGINE DAMPNER

I can see a use for the first 2 + they are relatively cheap but the last 2, I really wouldn't bother.

The Cusco sway bar may actually mess up the handling. R33's are prone to understeer more so than any of the other skylines (r32-r34), you'd be much better off leaving the sway bars stock and firming it up with a good set of springs and shocks. Shove a nice fat sway bar on the front and its going to understeer, throw a nice fat sway bar on the rear and its going to be rather tail happy/slippery on corner exit.

What suspension are you running around with?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168484-buying-new-bits/#findComment-3114265
Share on other sites

any idea's or tips on making a r33 handel better, im building the car up and before i go crazy on power im going over the car, brakes, handling and traction

So far iv got

Tein ha coilovers

DBA slotted rotors

Braided brake lines frount and rear

Endless brake pads

265/35/18 at the frount and 245/40/18 at the rear wraped in nankang tyre's

Frount apex strut brace

and soon

CUSCO BRAKE STOPPER

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168484-buying-new-bits/#findComment-3114522
Share on other sites

1. Ditch the Nankangs.

I recently had a set of 245/40/18's Nankang NS2's on my R32; they gripped worse than a set of cheapo Federal 535 225/50/16's I have on stock rims.

I was extremely dissapointed in the nankangs considering they are nankangs top tyre and gripped slightly worse than cheap 535 federals that were considerably narrower.

Are you sure you haven't mixed up the front & rear? Wider on the front is silly and 'apparently' illegal. When I had my VS 5ltr 5speed I ran around with stockies on the rear for a little; that was until I was pulled over by a cop and was told its illegal to run narrower tyres on the rear than the front. :S

Throw a set of Federal ss595's all round; Well priced tyres that offer excellent bang for buck. Wall-T-Wall tyres can do prices for sau members that other tyre shops can't match. Best price is obtained when you book the car in for a set of new tyres all round. They had a few issues with sau members grabbing quotes then going else where; then other tyre shops would ring them asking how the frig they can do such prices blah blah. :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168484-buying-new-bits/#findComment-3114533
Share on other sites

if your looking for a "non-defectable" setup (people may argue there is no such thing in sa =P) you may not want to run these. correct me if i'm wrong, but they are insta-defect if spotted?

If u buy them from Maltec they sell braided ones coated in black silicon (to prevent cutting through suspension parts) and have the ADR approval numbers on the collars.

These are not guaranteed defect free, but would be less likely to get picked on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168484-buying-new-bits/#findComment-3115850
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...