Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i work with carbon and you can repair it. its a prick of a job if u want the carbon to still be clear. if you just need a fix and not a clear finish fix, prob cost like 200 plus paint, clear finish like 600 plus paint. a clear finish needs extra time take to align the weave of the carbon, extra time ti not distort the carbon, time to re clear the entire bonnet so the corners dont look out of place with nice new clear resin and most expensive of all, tryin to find some 1 who will take the time to do it, so thats y ull pay through the nose if u want a clear finish.

IMO, get it repaired, and instead of spraying, there is new contact type carbon stuff you can get, ive seen many items wrapped in it, no distortion or defects visible, then ppl apply like 3 coats of 2 pac clear and it gives the piece a deep clear coat and awesom carbon finish.

speak to abcent on the forum and get him to show you his drift wing. when he got it, it looks like carbon and will fool almost every1 out there, other than ppl like myself that work with the shit and know the diff.

hope this helps ya out

um not 100% sure of places that would be reliable enough to do a clear carbon repair, they are very much butchers most places. i work in the aircraft industry so we have to be more precise.

if u plan to spray, any panel beater can do it.

but otherwise um.... try looking in teh yellow pages. really dont know man.

i work with carbon and you can repair it. its a prick of a job if u want the carbon to still be clear. if you just need a fix and not a clear finish fix, prob cost like 200 plus paint, clear finish like 600 plus paint. a clear finish needs extra time take to align the weave of the carbon, extra time ti not distort the carbon, time to re clear the entire bonnet so the corners dont look out of place with nice new clear resin and most expensive of all, tryin to find some 1 who will take the time to do it, so thats y ull pay through the nose if u want a clear finish.

IMO, get it repaired, and instead of spraying, there is new contact type carbon stuff you can get, ive seen many items wrapped in it, no distortion or defects visible, then ppl apply like 3 coats of 2 pac clear and it gives the piece a deep clear coat and awesom carbon finish.

speak to abcent on the forum and get him to show you his drift wing. when he got it, it looks like carbon and will fool almost every1 out there, other than ppl like myself that work with the shit and know the diff.

hope this helps ya out

Hey Cheez, what sort of resin do they use with the carbon, i have a small chip in the edge of my bonnet i'd like to fix.

from a personal note, i work in the aircraft industry so i got access to some of the best resins and repair materials that are out there. but like plynx said any good resin will do the job, see the guys at FGI and get them to mail you out a small container and catalyst. like $30 for a small job like your talking.

  • 3 weeks later...
we do repairs on cf aero parts from $220 it will come out 80-99%

After you have repaired it, if it's the cheaper type bonnet (layer of carbon on top and the rest f/glass) you need bonnet pins. The only legal ones I know of are the Ford GT type that countersink into the bonnet, or similar

I got defected for my bonnet pins sticking up......never said a word about the c/f bonnet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've uploaded logs / the current map to Gdrive if anyone has any ideas. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FPnr22Z-EilG7tYdHSi0Qb07P2jfFLKV?usp=sharing
    • I'm running a Haltech Platinum Pro with the stock map for the RB20DET + tweaks for my build. When I started it this morning, the IAT was at 32F/0C (Outside temp was ~42F) and the AFRs went off the scale for my AEM gauge. I let it run for ~30 seconds then turned it off. I then did a smoke test, by hooking into a vacuum line directly behind the throttle body, and confirmed there was no leaks ( i let the smoke tester run for ~5 minutes / confirmed it was generating smoke before hand ). I then started the car again, after fixing a power steering leak.... and it seemed to be happy for ~30 seconds (was at ~11/12), but then seemingly shot back up to ~18 again. I then let the car run for a few minutes, thinking this was just cold start related, but the AFRs never came back down. I didn't let the car fully warm up, so maybe this makes sense, but I'm not sure what to do? The AFRs, when I last ran it, were normal, but because of personal reasons I haven't been able to break in the car. It was rebuilt last year. Engine / Mod list: Supertec pistons Spool rods Kelford 270 cams and Springs Stock crank Deatschwerks 900cc injectors Walbro 255 (Wired directly to the battery relocated in the trunk) NKG Audi R8 Coil packs + Conversion Harnesses from Wiring Specialties Holset HY35 turbo Haltech Platinum Pro ECU Haltech boost controller (wired in for high boost RB25 Neo transmission + needed bits for the speedo to work  
    • Not great at getting the camera out fast enough for cars driving. Even in traffic. S15 is in front of the kei truck.
×
×
  • Create New...