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Hey guys,

Was having a fiddle with the handcontroller and noticed the few IGN timing cells adjacent to idle cell all say 20.

when using map tracer, it shows the idle cell in use.... but when i switch to 4 or 8 mode display...

why am i getting ign timing of say 22 or 23 or 21 etc etc...???

is something wrong with something?

Also i noticed a comment made from another thread that, when water temp correction is set at 80degrees and temp is less than that, it will drop the ignition timing by 5degrees... is this only on idle or throughout the entire map?

I ask this because mine also never goes above 80... mostly at 74-75ish. should i be setting the 50degree correction to 1.00 ???

Edited by mle808
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168584-rb25-powerfc-ign-timing/
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no the base timing is 20 and the powerfc uses ignition to control the idle speed, our gtr will swing from 5-24 degrees to maintain a steady idle it is normal.

water temp correction corrects the whole map. there are two settings one for overheat and one for cold start etc.

no the base timing is 20 and the powerfc uses ignition to control the idle speed, our gtr will swing from 5-24 degrees to maintain a steady idle it is normal.

water temp correction corrects the whole map. there are two settings one for overheat and one for cold start etc.

ok, thanks!!!

If im never seeing temps of 80...should i change any of the settings for 50degrees? if so, what should i do?

ok, thanks!!!

If im never seeing temps of 80...should i change any of the settings for 50degrees? if so, what should i do?

the setting you are talking about is a safety measure, if your car gets hot (from 80-110) it will start taking out timing. if yours never hits 80 then it is set correct (-5 degrees from 80-110). On our car i run the start temp at 90 with a slope of -10 degrees to 110.

20deg is low, crank it up :D

hi...

It was your posts that i saw the water temp correction thing during your fiddles with your powerfc, was meant to PM you but couldn't really be bothered to find another thread with your username again.

you mentioned that you've changed the settings at 50 degrees to 1.00 and 1.00. but as you can see i'm getting conflicting info above....

you said that the water correction settings was to retard timing by 5 until it reaches 80, thats why you changed it to 1.00 @ 50. right? or did i misunderstand?

But..URAS said the settings are for overheating...

which is correct?

no what i found on my 33 was that it would never reach 80deg

cars optimum setting is 80deg but mine would always be under

so like hover near 75deg. the pfc has correction to dial in more timing and richen up below 80deg

so if you never get to 80deg on stock pfc water correction (most people) then you are richer a little bit

so i set 50deg correction to be 1.00 same as 80deg correct so that it wasnt a bit more rich

arh...so if mine never sees 80degrees either. should i be changing to 1.00, 1.00 like you?

Funny tho, because when idle is completly stable, the ign timing is at 15, but set to 20 in the maps.

Thats why i thought it retards by 5 if not reach optimum temp.

ur guide is impressive paul, saves posting alot of repeating threads..thanks!!!!

too bad its down at the moment hey? is the FAQ on another other server that we can peek at for the time being?

the setting you are talking about is a safety measure, if your car gets hot (from 80-110) it will start taking out timing. if yours never hits 80 then it is set correct (-5 degrees from 80-110). On our car i run the start temp at 90 with a slope of -10 degrees to 110.

Dont suppose you've ever seen an s15 PFC not relearn closed TPS - and hence try to implement an idle strategy at low throttle angles? Problem was that the low throttle driving rpm was higher then the desired idle rpm and it would pull all the timing out and drive like a pig.

Also too much coolant ignition retard and you just going to casue more heat to the head and overall coolant system. I prefer to heavily enrichen the mixtures if the temps is way outside operating temps.

I have seen that exact problem with an S14 and Power FC. Flat and terrible to drive at anykind of light throttle.

If it steps out of operating temp I usually pull out a few degrees and richen the mixture up. Im not a big fan of pulling bucket loads of timing out for the exact reasons Rob82 mentioned.

Uras you end up with -30 at 110 degrees?? No big deal as something is very wrong for it to get that hot but curious none the less.

Hey all

Had the PFC for ~ 6 weeks now, it quickly warms up to 60 and then slowly comes up towards 80, but sometimes never gets there, like sits on ~ 76.

this means that the car is not running optimally until 80 then?

I am going to Kwinana Plex for street drags tonight, should I ensure the car warms up to 80 before racing?

Or can someone explain how to change the setting on the HC??

much thanks!!

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