Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

DAN, ADZ HAS ALREADY SAID A COMPANY CAN GET A FRONT CONVERSION KIT FOR 1,750 (this being what I want to do.)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3105614

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Arnt these kits 5grand+?
prob just in parts alone if your lucky

fitting and painting wont be a problem, just your skeptical attitude. not needed.

mind you we are talking about the COST of the kits, not fitting and painting.

so why dont you read posts properly. It has been proven the kit is not 5 grande and is under 2000.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

yes but then see how the thread has progressed, this is called a discussion....hence why we are on a thing called a forum to discuss lol. and go get some real world quotes not....oh i heard of some dude getting this done at this price. really a body place to do this and get it right is goin to take a long time to get the fitment right then spray.

so then based on ur "Discussion" of the matter, it will cost 5 grande + 2 grande fitment and paint.

= 7 grande.

I think, it will get all done for a touch under 3 thousand, if not just a bit over. and thats being REALISTIC. and dont say "oh but ull need to suck someones falice" because no, everyone here strives to get the best price by asking the best ppl.

I myself will go to Roger Steen's crash repairers because I have very good relations with him and he does very good work on cars, and I will also get some R34 parts, if any, off nisswreck because I know they are relatively competitive and good people to deal with. It's that simple. The only hard part is finding the time.

DAN, ADZ HAS ALREADY SAID A COMPANY CAN GET A FRONT CONVERSION KIT FOR 1,750 (this being what I want to do.)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3105614

For 1,750$ it's gana be ruff and to what i know of its not a bolt up job alot of custom work needed$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Good luck with the price to be under 3k!!! remembering the lights themselves cost $1800 or so, and then a bonnet is around $6-800, so there goes nearly 2.5k without front bar, and guards, which generally would go for about another grand! and then the pannels arn't orig R34! at least 5k your gonna be up for for a "decent" job!

dont like the 34 front on the 33 at all sorry.

lol dont be sorry!

But yer its not so much i love the kit etc i just wanted to do something a bit different and everything wid a 33 has been done to death! lol i was looking at a trust bar first off but then found at a recent car show every second 33 had either a 400r front or trust.. so yer just wanted to go a bit different

For 1,750$ it's gana be ruff and to what i know of its not a bolt up job alot of custom work needed$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

i also thought this but they offer a 12 day money back refund if you recieve it and u decide u no longer want it, it looks bad quialty or fitment isnt right. plus they pay the freighting costs back to them...

You will find it hard to do something origional with a ~ 13 yo car

lol yer exactly, and i agree. thats why i have gone this way. i mean by no means is this one of a kind or anything but its a bit different and has a less chance of rocking up to a car show and being placed next to a car looking the same as urs lol u kno

i also thought this but they offer a 12 day money back refund if you recieve it and u decide u no longer want it, it looks bad quialty or fitment isnt right. plus they pay the freighting costs back to them...

if thats not a great guarantee i cant see any reason why you should stop me from doing this to my car BillyE, no one will laugh at me even if i didnt get all the stuff on my car, because I wouldnt care.

if thats not a great guarantee i cant see any reason why you should stop me from doing this to my car BillyE, no one will laugh at me even if i didnt get all the stuff on my car, because I wouldnt care.

Fair enough.

What am i talking about anyway, i paid 750 for a complete s13.4 conversion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...