Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a bunch of old and new parts from my GTR that are gathering dust and taking up space down at Advan, everything is off my 32 GTR.

SOLD Sard 700cc Injectors for RB 26. $700 these have 4000k on them, too small so have gone litre injectors.

Ross Harmonic balancer $350

Stock intercooler $150

Stock ignition coils $100

SOLD Pod filters x2 $50

Stock R32 GTR turbos $300 for pair (these are in good condition)

Rear diff $400 this was a replacement item for a noisy one that came with the car, it's done 5000k in the car as I've swapped for shorter ratio's

Front diff (gear set only) $200

There is also a set of 17 inch A-Tech light weight wheels with Nangkang tread that has HEAPS of meat left on the tyres, pictured below. $800

All this stuff has to go as I'm never going to use it again, contact me via PM or email b4007107 at hot mail.com

Everything is available for pickup and viewing at Advan Performance in Silverwater, please let me know before you go to pick anything up as Peter will be collecting payment for the sold items.

Thanks

Ben

LCTEG-2.jpg

Edited by 1q2w3e4r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168606-gtr-parts-have-to-go-in-sydney/
Share on other sites

Due to requests bigger shot above of the rims and another one as well. I will get some better shots in the next few days, or alternatively your welcome to pop into Advan and check them out and speak to Peter.

I will endevour to find out what size the rims are and what sized rubber tomorrow, I believe it's 245/45/17 off the top of my head but aren't 100% on it.

1.jpg

2.jpg

Here's some new pictures of the wheels and tyres for those interested. They are 17 x 8 all around, unfortunantly we couldn't find the offset stamped on the rim for those interested in GTS-T fitment etc. Anymore is more than welcome to come and check them out for themselves however.

IOSGP-IMG_3231.JPG

ZNDEH-IMG_3234.JPG

GNTHX-IMG_3237.JPG

DYEUS-IMG_3240.JPG

XBJYK-IMG_3243.JPG

As you can see plenty of tread and the rims are in great nick, I've photoed the one with a mark in it.

Edited by 1q2w3e4r
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey ben!

Saw you had a ross harmonic balencer for sale for a R32 GTR. Is it still available? If so im very interested cause mine is rooted. Please let us know ASAP. If you want you can msg me on 0413798123

Thanks heaps mate

Vince

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...