Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am hoping for a little advice here. My stagea has recently been involved in a nasty accident that is going to have it off the road for possibly six months or more, and the rego is about to run out. As I am going to be doing the majority of the work myself to repair it, I was considering taking the plates off and taking it over the pits when it is ready to drive again, rather than p1ss the rego money up the wall when it won't actually be drivable. My question is this - how much difference is there between taking a complianced import over the pits compared to taking a domestic car? I have re-licenced falcodores before, but I am unsure of what sort of documentation I will need to retag the stagea.

I should point out that my car is not a recent import, it was actually the test car for WA compliance for stageas so I don't actually have copies of the compliance paperwork, although I am assuming they won't be hard to get hold of?

Any and all advice on this would be hugely appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/
Share on other sites

Ouch dude that sucks :( but sorry I wouldn't know. I imagine it wouldn't be too much different than a falcadore aslong as compliance can be proved (compliance plate or papers etc), we just get my mates boss to take all our cars over the pits when needed.. hell he got my mates boonger commodore over the pits with a twincam twinturbo rb30 and a triple plate!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3118114
Share on other sites

My 10 cents - just pay the rego. It will be much less painfull in the end & not much more expensive.

By the time you take the time off work to go over the pits & go through all the hassle & costs it is just easier to take the pain of 6 months rego. The licensing/inspection system is an all day effort at the moment & the $10 Eric the Ripper chucked at it from the budget won't fix the problems in 6 months.

Add up the costs for new plates, transaction fees, time off work etc etc etc & see if it does actually add up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3118129
Share on other sites

I will ask him next time I see him but I kind of agree with djr81.. anytime I've had a car off the road for an extended period I maintain the rego to avoid the hassles. One of my mates has had his SS torana off the road for something like 8 years and kept the rego up (this thing is badass.. RB25 5spd in an SS and every nut/bolt throughout the car is brand new :()

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3118143
Share on other sites

I see what you are saying with the hassles - but the $600 a year it costs me in rego kinda makes it worth while and seeing as though the car is stock as a rock - not even a FMIC then getting it over the pits will be pretty easy. I am very confident in the car and after all the work I am planning on doing to it (Neo S2 engine and triptronic box for starters) then the rego money will make things a little less time constrained and I will be relaxed enough to take my time and do it all properly.

As for keeping a car rego'd for 8 years and not driving it? Unless you are trying to avoid engineering approval requests at the pits, thats just silly! Almost $5K to "avoid the hassles" ??? Thats a whole heap of extra mods you would be sacraficing. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3118610
Share on other sites

Since i got the yellow sticker on the line i have had nothing but hassles trying to pass it. One inspector says one thing, another says something completely different. It has been over 3 times and failed each time for something completely moronic,

If i were you, pay the rego... but im not.

Pends on your budget, They will go over the car with a fine tooth comb. If its been in an accident and there is some significant damage the adding of pit stress is not worth it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3119120
Share on other sites

I see what you are saying with the hassles - but the $600 a year it costs me in rego kinda makes it worth while and seeing as though the car is stock as a rock - not even a FMIC then getting it over the pits will be pretty easy. I am very confident in the car and after all the work I am planning on doing to it (Neo S2 engine and triptronic box for starters) then the rego money will make things a little less time constrained and I will be relaxed enough to take my time and do it all properly.

As for keeping a car rego'd for 8 years and not driving it? Unless you are trying to avoid engineering approval requests at the pits, thats just silly! Almost $5K to "avoid the hassles" ??? Thats a whole heap of extra mods you would be sacraficing. :laugh:

$600/yr?! my 32 is only $415/yr! but yeah, my mate keeping the torana registered was mainly so it could still be driven places to be worked on without needing to get permits or towies, to keep his oldschool SSI-976 plates and avoid hassle when getting the new engine licensed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3119337
Share on other sites

i was at east perth pits last week and a guy was getting a mercedes over the pits after being de-regged for an accident and they really went over it , they wanted a list of parts repaired !

definetly not worth the hassle but if you do you just need your old rego papers and the compliance plate fitted to the car and your fine from that side of things

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3119883
Share on other sites

My 2 yen/cents (at current exchange rates) :

You should have no troubles with the licencing of an import that has a compliance plate fitted and has previously been registered in WA. It's the same as licencing a Toyota Corolla made in Japan (or maybe some other country). It is an imported vehicle that has to be modified to Australian Standards and have a compliance plate fitted before being allowed to be registered, basically the same process that your stagea went through.

The important things that the inspectors would look at is if the vehicle has been repaired correctly and is roadworthy and legal.

If you think that it will take 6 months or more (and it's usually always more if you do it yourself) then I'd take off the plates and save the money. If/when it is able to be driven on the road for either inspection or to get work done to it then just pay $14.50 for a vehicle movement permit from the Department of Planning and Infrastructure which will last for 48 hours.

Just keep a copy of your registration papers to give to the inspectors (if they want it( just to make things easier. They can find out all the information on your vehicle from the VIN, or engine number or old registration number anyway.

HTH's

Hermit_

(finally posting after 2 years;) )

I am hoping for a little advice here. My stagea has recently been involved in a nasty accident that is going to have it off the road for possibly six months or more, and the rego is about to run out. As I am going to be doing the majority of the work myself to repair it, I was considering taking the plates off and taking it over the pits when it is ready to drive again, rather than p1ss the rego money up the wall when it won't actually be drivable. My question is this - how much difference is there between taking a complianced import over the pits compared to taking a domestic car? I have re-licenced falcodores before, but I am unsure of what sort of documentation I will need to retag the stagea.

I should point out that my car is not a recent import, it was actually the test car for WA compliance for stageas so I don't actually have copies of the compliance paperwork, although I am assuming they won't be hard to get hold of?

Any and all advice on this would be hugely appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3123373
Share on other sites

Woah - I am honoured that a proffesional lurker such as yourself has come out of hiding!

Thanks heaps for that hermit. Its exactly what I wanted to hear. The repairs itself is not at all structural or anything, they are just about all cosmetic other than the replacement of the radiator support panel and all welding will be done by proffesionals, not me.

its just that I am going to be combining them with the conversion to a Neo S2 engine and triptronic gearbox at the same time, this is where the time gets blown out a bit. Your probably right too - 6 months is optimistic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3123653
Share on other sites

$600 for a full years rego is about right for a larger car half that is approx $350

if you only have 6 months rego left and you hand in the plates you will only get $250~ back coz of admin fees etc etc

As hermit said you will need to get a temp moving permit for $14.50 before u can drive it to another workshop to get it repaired/engine/gearbox change. then an inspection fee of $56.50 and if you fail you'd have to pay a re-inspection fee of $30 something. As long as the car has compliance plate, and you have previous rego or transfer papers you will be fine.

I havent had any inspectors ask for a list of parts repaired and ive been to pits around 8 times (different cars different issues) i go to the welshpool pits.

Down side is you will save $180 if all goes smoothly but your going to have to get to pits very very early like 5am to beat the crowd coz when they open at 8 theres lke 30-40 people infront of you and if you allow 20-30 mins each thats easily a few hours wait

gawd thats a long type, hope it helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3124618
Share on other sites

Down side is you will save $180 if all goes smoothly but your going to have to get to pits very very early like 5am to beat the crowd coz when they open at 8 theres lke 30-40 people infront of you and if you allow 20-30 mins each thats easily a few hours wait

Agree with ^^ Have u been to the pits lately n seen the queues? There was even a review on it on A Current Affair. Everyone that i know that has been pass the pits last couple of mths was there for the day. Queing up from 6am on until 3-4pm. And if u happen to be one that was in line all day but not get ur chance for inspection b4 they close, ull have to come back another day. I dont know bout u but having to take a day off just for that would cost me more in wages.

My biggest fear is having to go past THE PITS......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3124671
Share on other sites

Agree with ^^ Have u been to the pits lately n seen the queues? There was even a review on it on A Current Affair. Everyone that i know that has been pass the pits last couple of mths was there for the day. Queing up from 6am on until 3-4pm. And if u happen to be one that was in line all day but not get ur chance for inspection b4 they close, ull have to come back another day. I dont know bout u but having to take a day off just for that would cost me more in wages.

My biggest fear is having to go past THE PITS......

last time i went was about a month ago

farking oath went at 6am and i was the 21st or 22nd person there

then someones car in my lane broke down........ omfg people behind me were getting ahead in the other lane!

got outta there at 11-11:30 ish

the line was all the way out onto the road lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3126056
Share on other sites

If you're going to change the engine then you "have" to go over the pits anyway, (if you want to be legal).

Changing the enging number means an inspection and if you;re also changing from a manual to auto you'll need to have that inspected and noted on your registration papers. It probably won't make a difference to the average cop who pulls you over and looks under the bonnet but if you ever have an accident then you're in a world of trouble with the insurance companies. They won't pay out on any claim as you car would be deemed to be unroadworthy and also to have illegal modifications.

A hawk eyed cop could also give you an infringement for not having the correct information on your registration papers and then could put either a yellow or red sticker on your car.

To avoid a lot of hassle you may find it better to get an engineers report on the conversion also. The many compliance workshops could do this and would cost around $300.00 or so, about the same amount of money that you'd save by de-registering the car :thumbsup:

Hermit...

Woah - I am honoured that a proffesional lurker such as yourself has come out of hiding!

Thanks heaps for that hermit. Its exactly what I wanted to hear. The repairs itself is not at all structural or anything, they are just about all cosmetic other than the replacement of the radiator support panel and all welding will be done by proffesionals, not me.

its just that I am going to be combining them with the conversion to a Neo S2 engine and triptronic gearbox at the same time, this is where the time gets blown out a bit. Your probably right too - 6 months is optimistic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3126406
Share on other sites

If you're going to change the engine then you "have" to go over the pits anyway, (if you want to be legal).

Changing the enging number means an inspection and if you;re also changing from a manual to auto you'll need to have that inspected and noted on your registration papers. It probably won't make a difference to the average cop who pulls you over and looks under the bonnet but if you ever have an accident then you're in a world of trouble with the insurance companies. They won't pay out on any claim as you car would be deemed to be unroadworthy and also to have illegal modifications.

A hawk eyed cop could also give you an infringement for not having the correct information on your registration papers and then could put either a yellow or red sticker on your car.

To avoid a lot of hassle you may find it better to get an engineers report on the conversion also. The many compliance workshops could do this and would cost around $300.00 or so, about the same amount of money that you'd save by de-registering the car :)

Hermit...

I have already looked into the legalities of the conversion, and it doesn't need to be inspected because

a) its already an auto (just not triptronic but its viewed as the same thing in the eyes of the rego authority)

b) the engine is going from a RB25DET to a RB25DET Neo and this can be registered with just a change of details form (engine number only required) as this is viewed as the same as a reconditioned engine being dropped in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168729-wa-licence-regs/#findComment-3126708
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
    • No, with a twin plate clutch flywheels and clutch pressure plate/friction disks go together. Only clutch where that isn't the case is the Uniclutch but they currently don't make a pull version for the Getrag R34, just some other cars. Personally the flywheel is as light as I'd want it to be. It already drops revs faster than I want to shift normally and I blip the throttle again to rev match on upshifts.
    • Are there any other lighter flywheels that can be used with nismo coppermix twinplate system? Id like to gave the revs pick up faster than oem
    • RB20/25 covers don’t have threaded fasteners stock like RB26 covers. They are blind rivets so I will need to drill out and tap threads. I bought some M4x6mm button heads and will report back once done if I chose correctly length wise.    have also got some loctite 
×
×
  • Create New...