Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Keyword there - stock airbox.

You put a decent flowing panel filter into the airbox and you'll find that there is no really difference from that and a pod until your making some seriously big power.

I think Dezz did a back-to-back test Airbox & Pod (no cai boxing) on the dyno, there was a marginal increase in power and a skerrick in mid range.

However, the increase was so small that you would not notice nor feel on the street. The extra 2 or 3kw is dick all in the big picture for a street car.

And i would go on a leg to say if it was in a secenario with high under bonnet temps the pod would let you down noticeably

Basically for a streeter upto 250rwkw. Your better off with the airbox than a CAI/Pod setup if you look at the cost vs gain if your on a budget.

As it leaves money to be better spent in other areas

I found with the stock box the intake pipe would suck in and block under full load. Therefore this demonstarted to me the box has some restriction cos a pod does not do it at all. I found this to occur on the dyno at ~230-40 rwkw. You could replace the intake with a metal one, but your just masking the problem IMO. However a metal one is better anyway.

You could vent it better like some have done. But I CBF so I ran a pod.

I was suprised when this happened. but it did happen.

You're probably describing the sound from the stock BOV recirculating air on partial throttle openings to make your drive smoother. I guess you could hunt down an aftermarket recirculating valve that doesn't do this if you really want to keep the pod.

Hmmm... nice idea. Thanks - that might be the go.

Although I am starting to have fun with it now :P

when I first ehard the noise on friends car I though it was a BOV~~ the he showed me it's only th pod~~ sounds nice whats wrong with it~~

with regards having pod filter pipe going under the CAI box tray, I recon you'll get heaps of bug on there. Been considering it, I mean if you get some cheap ass $10 pod filter that's ok.. but if you get those Apexi $200+ and all the bugs splatered on your filter.. that's gonna cost heaps for maintenence..

Hey fellas

I just got my pod filter from Slide (thanks Aaron) and after installing it I've noticed something I didn't expect. Basically there is a really loud rushing air sound whenever I come on boost. I was looking forward to a bit more induction noise, but this is just embarrasing.

I've never put a pod filter on a turbo before, but on an N/A engine you just get a deep throaty growl and I was expecting something similar with perhaps a bit of a gushing sound when the BoV opened.

Is this constant rushing sound normal for turbos or is my blow off valve knackered?

Cheers guys

SII R33 GTS25t

(Stock other than Apexi pod)

LOL embarrasing?

that hard/loud induction noise is pretty much what got me into turbocharged cars, specially skylines since they got very loud induction noise and you only need a POD to get it out of em :P

Edited by R-SPEC

if you think thats a loud sound - come and stand near mine at 18psi with a 4 inch stainless pipe, and a GT3076 sucking at the other end..

Then you turn some heads.... Or maybe cause some people to dive for cover cause they think there is a cyclone coming to tear their house out of the ground..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...