Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i got R34 GTT. the headlight is faily clean but i see the yellowy dirty on inside and outside of headlight...

i want it to clean as crystal...... i clean the outside with plastic compound... but still see the yellowysy dirty colour... may be its from inside...

does anyone cleaned the headlight for R34 GTT or know how to do it?

cheers guys!!!

paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168855-headlight-cleaning/
Share on other sites

hi all

i got R34 GTT. the headlight is faily clean but i see the yellowy dirty on inside and outside of headlight...

i want it to clean as crystal...... i clean the outside with plastic compound... but still see the yellowysy dirty colour... may be its from inside...

does anyone cleaned the headlight for R34 GTT or know how to do it?

cheers guys!!!

paul

i have the same problem with my r33 gtst i asked around for some one to clean it and they wanted $100 bucks to clean each headlight i told him to take a jump.

i also asked autobarn and they suggested some headlight cleaner for about $20 didnt really see a result.

You can use Brasso to polish, then finish with meguires plasticX.

Although if the problem is IN the plastic and not on the surface of either inside or outside and its faded to a yellow, then there's nothing you can do.

Polishing merely just removes the majority of the hazyness and the scratches that cause hazyness and makes it alot clearer.

It's kinda like glass thats made with tint inside it as part of glass. Rub all you want but its still gonna be there.

If your really concerned then buy new lights :dry:

I use meguirs (sp) cut and polish... worked a treat :)

if you want ot clean the inside, you have to take thel lights out, open them up (oven preheat to 200, turn OFF, 15 mins in, pry apart) then put them back together with some sikaflex...

yeh thats why i use polish/wax it keeps them clean for a while, i mean the dirt or stains if u like, dont stick to the surface, because the wax and polish doesnt allow it... i havent had to clean my headlights for over 3 months...

Yes the brand is mothers, Product plastic cleaner, ive been told the use it to remove light scratches from glass as well. super cheap sell it :D

Covered b4, search button is your friend. Well coz im nice here's the direct link. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=16255

Get some kerosene or turps and pour some into the light and shake around then tip out n let evaporate. Doing this is also best way to get an moisture stuck in there out. But if there is moisture in there u may a crack somewhere!

Sounds harsh but seriously this works...try it on some other clear plastic if you dont believe me.

- Wet some 2000 grit wet&dry sand paper and evenly sand up the surface of the headlight

- Clean it off and dry it completely.

- At this point you wil hate me because your light will be all faded and look like shit

- Whip out some standard automotive cut and polish and work it over the headlight

It should come up crystal clear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...