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I will start with my mods.

my car is a r33 series 1 gtst

-fmic

-apexi pod filter

-hks bov they lost the screw in the top of it

-front strut bar

-haltech e11v2 computer (still have my old one if any one wants it).

-ngk spark plugs

-larger dump pipe

-no resonator (my choice).

-hi flow cat

-3 and half inch exhaust

-twin 5 inch tip rage muffler

-12 pounds of boost

-hi and low boost setting one set at 8 pounds the other at 12 pounds

-walboro feul pump 500 hp

-power is 195 kw at the wheels after tune from 145 kw at the wheels before tuning

-my car idles at 1000 revs

I recently came to all star performance tuning at geebung a couple of months ago after a truly horrific time of having my car serviced at ultra tune at strathpine (not going into that hear) i met richard and his crew and my problems were solved, all the crap that ultra tune did was undone and the car ran perfectly. After speaking with him i decided to replace my stock computer with a haltech e11v2 very nice very pretty, but now the car doesnt run very well at the moment.

in the morning when i cold start the car i now have to wait for the feul pump to finish making noise and pump the accelerator before i turn the turn the key to start, immediatly following this if it has been cold the night before the car will stall and i will have to start the car again, it will then either rev between 0 revs and 400 revs and struggle like buggery for a few seconds (the worst was about 15 seconds) until something (i am assuming the haltech computer) takes over and the revs go straight up to 1500 revs and start its warm up, which is very nice (briefly) until the revs then decide to drop down between 600 revs and 1100 revs and bounce around (which is not fun at all and quite embarising). the car does this for some minutes until the car is warm enough for me to think about moving, when i move my clutch into position the revs then drop low enogh for the car to stall (which it does so i have to rev the car to between 1500 revs to 2000 revs to avoid that from happening). After all that has occured i am off to my destination with out a care in the world, until i slow down and come to a stop that is. Gearing down is fine from 5th to 4th to 3rd to 2nd..., then i put the clutch in again to stop and go to 1st then the car stalls (which was terrifying especially coming off a highway or crossing traffic to come off the road into a car park.) i have clutch started the car if i am still moving or i will simply just restart the car like normal and all is well. I have talked to richard about this and he says he has not worked out all the little things yet and that he was not even aware of the car stalling and offered no resoning as to why at start up the car does what i have described earlier. what i have not had the chance to tell him as well is that my feul economy has gone from 500 kms easily to a bad 350 km if i am lucky (this is at low boost and driving like an old lady with an old lady back seat driver).

Now richard says that it could take up to a week to get the car tuned to were richard and myself would be satisfactory in the job (having the car for 5 working days already this seemed a bit odd as i assumed he was quite familier with tuning skylines). As for the rest of the drive i could not be happier it revs right at speed it handles a hell of alot better than it did before i came to all star performance tuning and sounds bloody amazing from idle to full blast on and off boost. smiles alround my car for its performance and the work richard at all star did and this is not to bag or put richard down in any way because he is cool and i do respect him BUT i do not have money to through around and i use my car every day and we all now how expensive tuning is. i will still be going to all star performance tuning at geebung for all my skyline needs but i would just like to know if he is the right person for the job. To finish the tune with him or find some one else that has the same quality tune or better to get it done. ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS?

sorry for writing so much but i didnt want to miss anything and i really want to sought this out.

p.s. i am not on this site all day every day so if you could p.m. me with your replies that would be great hope to see every one soon at a dinner or cruise or if your ever in strathpine look us up thanks.

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I think what richard is saying to you is that he would need that car for that period of time to go over a range of things like the actual hardware associated with the running of the car.

Several times I have had a 'bad tune' only to find that later down the track it was hardware related. Im not personally having a go at you but too often people blame the tuner for hardware misgivings.

However this does sound like a cold start tuning issue, this take time to sort out, but if Richard takes his time and goes over the tune and the hardware you should get a good result

Agreed Andy But.

What I think viator is trying to say is that the car was tuned fine by rich on the stock ecu, It was only after the install of the haltech and subsequent tune that the problem arose.

What I dont understand is why the tuner didnt rekognise these probs when the owner took delivery of the car after the tune. Or maybe he did.

Did the tuner say anything to you of these issues Viator? Or did he simply hand you the keys and say everything is fine?

Agreed Andy But.

What I think viator is trying to say is that the car was tuned fine by rich on the stock ecu, It was only after the install of the haltech and subsequent tune that the problem arose.

What I dont understand is why the tuner didnt rekognise these probs when the owner took delivery of the car after the tune. Or maybe he did.

Did the tuner say anything to you of these issues Viator? Or did he simply hand you the keys and say everything is fine?

It probably was fine when he handed it over! I know mine was fine when I got it back but went crap a few days later because of a busted AFM plug! I was blaming the tuner too :)

I would let Richard finish the job..there isnt many cheaper for Dyno tuning anyway

Agreed Andy But.

What I think viator is trying to say is that the car was tuned fine by rich on the stock ecu, It was only after the install of the haltech and subsequent tune that the problem arose.

What I dont understand is why the tuner didnt rekognise these probs when the owner took delivery of the car after the tune. Or maybe he did.

Did the tuner say anything to you of these issues Viator? Or did he simply hand you the keys and say everything is fine?

after i picked it up the second time he just said go and have some fun it is very responsive and fun but the problems i asked him about were still there

My S13 had the same problem with stalling at lights. I cleaned up the plugs on the idle controller, problem solved. Not saying this is your problem but it might be worth a try as it won't take a lot of time or money to check.

I've also heard damaged AFMs can do the same kind of thing. Try pulling one off a friend's car and see if yours still does the same thing. Again, probably not the cause but another easy/cheap test.

i have just got off the phone with richard at all star performance tuning at geebung and i will be taking my car there next week. thanks for every ones help. and if any one else has any more ideas i am listening

p.s. if anyone needs my stock series 1 r33 gts25t computer just gimmie a p.m.

Edited by viator

2 weeks to fix some dodgies, install a haltech and 'tune' it? (i use the word 'tune' very losely)

i think something's wrong with that :)

this is another story to file with the other ones about allstar

I am here at Allstar as we speak having the same problems rectified. It seems that the upgraded software for the Haltech E11V2 is the problem and it doesn't readily show any problem on the dyno. But when you drive it on the street (which I did with Richo in the car to demonstrate) He was ready to believe all I had said was wrong. He has spoken to Haltech and they have given him some ideas on how to fix it. Will keep you posted.

And Shanef, I am going to beat you and rub your ears for a full minute!! Get a car on the road and then we will talk about good and bad tuners!!

I am here at Allstar as we speak having the same problems rectified. It seems that the upgraded software for the Haltech E11V2 is the problem and it doesn't readily show any problem on the dyno. But when you drive it on the street (which I did with Richo in the car to demonstrate) He was ready to believe all I had said was wrong. He has spoken to Haltech and they have given him some ideas on how to fix it. Will keep you posted.

And Shanef, I am going to beat you and rub your ears for a full minute!! Get a car on the road and then we will talk about good and bad tuners!!

NOW WE SEE THE VIOLENCE INHERENT IN THE SYSTEM. :laughing-smiley-014:

Sounds like help may be on the way Dave. Good new for Richards customers. :pwned:

I am here at Allstar as we speak having the same problems rectified. It seems that the upgraded software for the Haltech E11V2 is the problem and it doesn't readily show any problem on the dyno. But when you drive it on the street (which I did with Richo in the car to demonstrate) He was ready to believe all I had said was wrong. He has spoken to Haltech and they have given him some ideas on how to fix it. Will keep you posted.

And Shanef, I am going to beat you and rub your ears for a full minute!! Get a car on the road and then we will talk about good and bad tuners!!

as you found out last nite big fella, that sh!t dont work on me :pwned:

and obvioulsy you dont know that i use to have a 33 (prolly as quick as urs hehe), and yes i know about tuners, good ones at that :dry:

-hks bov they lost the screw in the top of it

I would check this out! If there is no adj screw in your bov then it will not seal your system because there is no spring tension on the piston inside your bov which causes excess loss of air.( The bov could be faulty as well.)

This will upset your afm like you are experiencing, most bov's do this unless they are plumb-back, the fault isn't always the afm it is only reading signals from up-stream.

If this is the poblem then you will need a re-tune!

If your bov is OK, then your cold start and compensation settings are wrong!

G-luck!

thank you for all your replies i am taking the car in next week and i will try to replace the screw in my bov that went walk about (any ideas about where to get a replacement would be great) look us up if your ever in strathpine

-hks bov they lost the screw in the top of it

I would check this out! If there is no adj screw in your bov then it will not seal your system because there is no spring tension on the piston inside your bov which causes excess loss of air.( The bov could be faulty as well.)

This will upset your afm like you are experiencing, most bov's do this unless they are plumb-back, the fault isn't always the afm it is only reading signals from up-stream.

If this is the poblem then you will need a re-tune!

If your bov is OK, then your cold start and compensation settings are wrong!

G-luck!

A haltech doesn't use an AFM :D

Well i had issues with my microtech on cold start up. Revs were all over the place stalling over fuelling.

I booked it in to my tuner for 8am and it was back by lunch time problem solved.

My opionion -- Take it somewhere else.

One week to tune a car what a joke.

You can build an engine in one week.

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