Hydrolic To Solid Lifters

[4DoorStyle]

As er my previous topic, i have to replace my lifters, quoted $3400 just for the parts from nissan. with the help of some of the guys on here, i have found Tomei solid lifters appox $500 but then i have to get Tomei solid cams approx $650 and solid valve springs approx $ 650. this still works out cheaper than buying new hydrolic lifters. what are the differences between both set ups? and is it worth converting?

[SilverECR33]

From My experience, Solid lifters, are better for RAcing or hardcore engines. They are designed to offer a more vicous opening to the valuves, so valve open duration may be quicker and longer. Of course You need to match Solid lifters to a Solid profile cam. Otherwise you would damage your hidrolic cam due to the Composition of the cam not being strong enough. and the solid lifters ripping your hydrolic cam up.

Hydrolic Lifters are designed to take out some of the Initial torue placed on the Valve train. By acting as a shockie which helps in also lobe design, and getting the curve of valve opening movement smoother. Also lasting alot longer as initial Wear and tear is lowered due to less stress placed on the cam.

Solids obviously ARe the Oposite. Solid lifters act as soon as the lobe begins to increase in diameter. Which means your Valves are open immediately and earlier and move Vicious than a Hydrolic Lifter will. Obviously Solid cams are designed different in a way to hydrolic in the same sense to combat this vicious stress in that the Initial Opening curve is slightly less vicious than a hydrolic so that it doesnt wear out as quickly, But As Ive learned Solid Lifters and cams do wear out . alot more quicker than Hydrolic. and they also need to be Re-Adjusted frequently. So they would not be your Ideal solution to a Street car. And the only reason I personally wouldnt use them. Unless it was on a Race car, Not a daily Driver (so to speak).

Now I havnt used these TOMEI solid cam sets, and im not 100% sure on their wear characteristics. for all i know they could be great.. But might be an idea. to contact the supplier or a tuner who has used them and find out.

Cheers.

[RBwhatever]

Just been doing some reading. It seems nissan australia charge $100 per hydraulic lifter. For a RB25 that has 24 lifters its adds up to $2400+gst just for the lifters only.

I stole that info from here. A guy named 'cannonball' said he could get a full set of genuine hydraulic lifters from the states for 500 delivered.

http://www.initialdrift.com.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5547

[RBwhatever]

Also maybe give rocket industries a call. They might have an idea of where you can get hydraulic ones maybe.

General Sales

Ph: (02) 8825 1900

Fax: (02) 8825 1911

Email: [email protected]

Web: www.rocketind.com

[4DoorStyle]

Cheers guys, great info, helped me heaps, my car is only driven once a week so it probably wont wear fast but i have a few options now to work with. cheers

[mokompri]

Hydrolic Lifters are designed to take out some of the Initial torue placed on the Valve train. By acting as a shockie which helps in also lobe design, and getting the curve of valve opening movement smoother. Also lasting alot longer as initial Wear and tear is lowered due to less stress placed on the cam.

Solids obviously ARe the Oposite. Solid lifters act as soon as the lobe begins to increase in diameter. Which means your Valves are open immediately and earlier and move Vicious than a Hydrolic Lifter will. Obviously Solid cams are designed different in a way to hydrolic in the same sense to combat this vicious stress in that the Initial Opening curve is slightly less vicious than a hydrolic so that it doesnt wear out as quickly, But As Ive learned Solid Lifters and cams do wear out . alot more quicker than Hydrolic. and they also need to be Re-Adjusted frequently. So they would not be your Ideal solution to a Street car. And the only reason I personally wouldnt use them. Unless it was on a Race car, Not a daily Driver (so to speak).

my understanding of the purposes of hydraulic and solid lifters is a bit different. the reason hydraulics are used is purely from a maintenance point of view, they do not require 're-shimming' like solids do. as wear occurs, hydraulic lifters use oil pressure to take up the extra slack/clearance thats caused by the wear, and so always giving the approriate clearances required. solids on the other hand do not 'adapt' and clearances increase as wear occurs and you need to re-shim them to the appropriate clearances again.

hydraulic lifters are not suited too well for very high rpm usage (above stock rpm redline), and thats why people convert to solids, when they want to go above the stock redline.

try and source a second hand head and wack it on, its cheapest solution..

edit: other then allowing for an increased redline, solids do not offer any direct performance advantage over hydraulics.

Edited May 16, 2007 by mokompri

[FineLine]

I dont know if this is of any advantage to you but i converted to solids to take advantage of a nice head porting job.

A local engineer is doing it and has done it succesfully before. I am providing him with my stufffed hydraulic lifters and he is converting them to solids. I am providing him with the correct springs and rb26 solid cams and he is installing them and setting the lash by trimming the valve stems.

I purchased the cams as near new for 600 dollars, the correct tomei springs cost about the same and the engineer has quoted me 4/5 hundred to do the job. The only additional expense will be the closing of the vct port in the block. Shouldnt be all that much to drill, tap, and put a bung in it.