Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To check wheel bearings, first, jack up the car. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to feel for play. If there is not, spin the wheel around and put your hand or fingers on the lower control arm or the upper control arm (lower is better). You should NOT feel any grittyness or small vibrations when you spin the wheel around. It should be smooth and restriction free. Eg. with your fingers on the lower control arm, it should feel the same with the wheel spinning around as it does with the wheel not spinning around.

With the rears it is a little more difficult. You cannot always hear a dodgy bearing with the wheels jacked up and driving at 70. Sometimes they need load on them to make the noise. I also advise against doing this as the vehicle may come off the stands and then you will be in a world of trouble.

Check them the same way as you did the front. Compare each side. if one feels rougher than the other then replace it. If they both feel smooth and have no free play. Have a look at the tyres. They should be wearing perfectly.

The noise should not change note on different road sufaces. Obviously except for the normal noise change when you go from rough to smooth or visa versa. But the bearing noise will always be the same. If it is louder on a smoother road then it is very much more likely to be a tyre noise as tyre noises get louder on smoother roads.

Another option is to just pull apart all the bearings and inspect them by eye or have someone else do it for you. Or you can just replace all of them without checking. They aren't that expensive if you know where to look. They are all probably due for a change now anyway or at least a re-pack.

Thank 3 LIT - good advice. I will check the way you say. The fronts I checked and one seems quite noisy when youu spin the wheel by hand. The one that is noisy is the one that is most free.

I replaced front wheel bearings on my corolla - though there was more vibration - and it seems odd that this is only really bad between 70km/gh and 80km/h.

Hope it isnt there rear ones as I read somewhere might need to replace the hub..

tnaks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...