Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

HKS 3037S 56T, getting custom manifold, dump etc made up and getting it all ceramic coated - inlcuding the turbine housing. Just waiting to get it fitted - starting to itch..... I also have cams on order from Japan (being made) head gasket, exh cam gear, injectors, pump etc. The waiting is killing me!!!!

Anything in particular? The 550cc injectors there are very expensive for what they are, low impedance top feed and second hand - they are charging about the same price as side feed high impedance new from japan. Their lightened flywheels seem like a good buy at $295, but they weigh 6kg - second hand from Jap, I have seen 4.5kg flywheels for less.

Bottom line, sometimes places sell some stuff really cheap, other stuff not so cheap. I wouldnt say they are no good - just depends on what you are after.

to be honest is lag really shit to have on the street.

Whats 500 rmp in the context of going for that extra power.

when boost does hit its gonna be a heap of

fun.http://www.rotorworx.com.au/perfor_turbo.html

heres a link i just found, with a few other turbos you might not have looked at.

seem reasonably priced too for what they are capable of.

i was speaking to another guy on the forums. also has an rb25det in a solvia. and he was running one of the series 5 turbos.

he used the stndard manifold but just got two of the exhaust studs relocated. it cost him $20 to get done.

The car ran 13.8 on 8 psi at 106mph so cant be doing to bad.

just another way instead of spending mega dollars.

the turbos go for around $200 and then you could get it rebuild and hiflowed for around $800.

wouldn'd be a bad idea for the price.

i think he said it spooled up at 4000 rpm.

Rob, HKS 2835, or a garrett gt30, just make sure you get one with a smallish turbine AR ratio:) Either of those should be fine. If you have a talk to the guys Per4manz, or SST - I'm sure they would be able to find the perfect turbo. Your aims for rwhp v's lag seem pretty realistic, depends on how much you want to spend at the end of the day.:rolleyes:

INASNT, Evan (PSI fabrication) is making it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...