Exhaust Manifold Studs

[grigor]

BROKEN EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS.

Block the exhaust ports and any other pipework with rags and clean the stud area.

(Don’t be too critical of this head, it’s just on old Rb30 unit for the demo)

Photo 1. Use a sharp centre punch to accurately centre mark the broken stud.

Photo 2. Start with a pilot drill and drill squarely and centrally right through the stud.

Photo 3. Increase the drill bit diameter to that specified by the stud removing tool manufacturer.

Take care.

Photos 4 & 5. The stud tool is made from top quality steel so if it breaks off in your stud, you’ll never drill it out.

Do not use the old tapered “Easy-Out” style of stud remover, buy the correct tool.

Photo 6. Apply some WD40 or CRC to the threads via the hollowed stud then drive in the stud tool.

Photo 7. Slip the sliding nut right up close to the broken stud to reduce torsion in the tool.

Photos 8 & 9. Unscrew and withdraw the broken stud.

Photo 10. Using a bottoming tap, clean the threads in the cylinder head.

The thread size is M10x1.25

Photos 11 & 12. Use the double nut method to install your new stud.

Photo 13. Remove the double nuts and thoroughly clean the area using compressed air.

Carefully remove all rags from pipework. Use a vacuum as drill turnings will be everywhere.

HINTS.

This demonstration uses tools available to the average home mechanic; however a right angled drive drill is best for the studs at the firewall.

I always replace all the studs, not just the broken ones.

If available, left hand drill bits are brilliant for drilling out broken studs. The heat generated during drilling is usually sufficient to wind the broken stud straight out on the end of the drill bit.

While the exhaust manifold is removed, drill and tap out any broken heat shield bolts.

The 4-studs for the turbo often loosen in the manifold even though their nuts are held captive with tab washers. This is the ideal time to ensure those studs are re-tightened into the manifold.

Offer up the manifold without a gasket to ensure the slotted holes have sufficient room for expansion. The end cylinder’s slotted holes may need easing to achieve sufficient clearance.

Make DEAD sure all rags are removed from induction pipework etc.

Remove the CAS plug and crank the engine to prime oil up to the turbo.

PURGE ALL AIR FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM ON RE-START.

[MANWHORE]

Hey greg

where do you buy that style of stud remover from? I have ever only seen the easy out style of very thin tapered remover - they'er brittle.

What is your type called? are they reuseable? like can you get that broken stud off the end of it afterwards? or do you need to buy one for each broken stud

[b0n3611]

Hi all,

I have come across this problem in my r33 over the weekend. Is it possible to get to all the studs inside the engine bay or will I have to remove the head? Are there any studs and gaskets to buy that are better than the rest?

Thanks

[colourclassic]

Hi all,

I have come across this problem in my r33 over the weekend. Is it possible to get to all the studs inside the engine bay or will I have to remove the head? Are there any studs and gaskets to buy that are better than the rest?

Thanks

Massive dig there mate. You should be able to access all studs with the head on. If you're in Melbourne I can strongly recommend the thread doctor to come out and do the job for you, he charges a bit, but gets the job done really well. Cheaper than taking the head off including time and effort. If not in Melbourne call around, there should be a mobile thread doctor in your state. Unless you a really competent and have great quality easy-outs, it's a job to be left to a pro.

Edited October 14, 2013 by colourclassic

[colourclassic]

...And OEM is generally the way to go gasket-wise. Taarks do all that at great prices