Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know i know, i tired to search but when i typed in "r33 sub" so much random shit came up it caved my head in.

so just quickly, generaly speaking, what is the biggest sub you can fit into the boot of an r33?

im thinking about getting a half decent 10 inch in a sealed box, would this thing be alright?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2007-SOUNDSTREAM-PI...1QQcmdZViewItem

cheers brudda's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169028-biggest-sub-to-fit-in-r33-boot/
Share on other sites

u can probably fit 2 15" subs, but u wont have a boot.

It depends wat your looking for. If u want spl or sq. For sq, 10-12" sub in sealed box would be most responsive. Whereas for spl, 12-15" ported is the way to go. Of course u can have a ported box thats still good in sq. It depends wat woofer your getting and wat its reocmmended box size is

Get some DD"s

Edited by mark_sudakov

yar, im thinking if i get a large sub them everything in my car will rattle like the spoiler and so on.

so sound quality rather then SPL would be the better option.

if anyone has a single sealed 10-12 in their boot could you please post a pic so i can sus out how much room they take up. =) cheers

Try dual 18" kicker subs .. if you want the biggest .. if your looking at any dance music will sound like shit tho!

bigger sub runs slower and ussually out of time .. depends on sub tho but 12" is best .. Just buy a top of the line sub .. I.E JL W7 or Fusion NV series

BIG BASS

not everyone has a grand to spend on a sub...

i tried to design a box for 2 15 inch speakers, but the slot port box was bigger then the boot, would have had to be made IN the boot, and would need to be disassembled to get it out... not to mention i couldnt get to the battery... (damn my fancy design and high standards :unsure:)

2 12's seem to be the go in skylines... ive noticed with skylines too most of the audio stays inside the car :D

There are a few installs in this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=159050&hl=

I listened to a 10" and 12" sub in the audio store and the 12" had a fair bit more bass and was only about $10 more or something like that so made my decision easy.

Whos sub cost $1000? mine cost me $300 :) NEW :thumbsup::):P

Why not one 12" and two 10" :D check out caraudioaustralia.com.au for cheap second handers :D

if you can find me 2 12" W7's for $300 each, i will personally give you $100 for doing it...

2x10" JL's for me.

Image005.jpg

They're not actually in the box here, but they juuusssssst fit up on the section next to the battery. I'll take more detailed/useful pics if You want. I can get the space saver in&out no probs, but I've gotta trim the bottom of the box to get an inflated full-sized tyre past.

I listen to a fair bit of rock & metal, so I really dig the tight, punchy bass from the 2x10's, plus they still push out plenty of SPL down low for hip-hop & Dance! - Volume is plentiful, with only 50Wrms per sub ! ! ! ! :kiss:

oh, word: if U mount a sub box under the parcel shelf, it CANNOT touch the HICAS box, which is slung under there.

Try dual 18" kicker subs .. if you want the biggest .. if your looking at any dance music will sound like shit tho!

bigger sub runs slower and ussually out of time .. depends on sub tho but 12" is best .. Just buy a top of the line sub .. I.E JL W7 or Fusion NV series

BIG BASS

probly one of the biggest missconceptions in car audio. group delay has more to do with box design, physical weight of the cone would have basically inaudible effects, if driven off the same amp at same impedence/power etc

if you are only looking at 10" subs then there wont be a problem. Depending on how you mount it, you can go a lot bigger and fit multiple in. Depends if you want to go a box, or a custom install...either way you wont have much boot space left.

If you relocate the battery etc from behind the rear seat you can put a box in there to keep some boot space. That all seemed to hard for me, but the result is that I could fit a set of golf clubs in the boot it I wanted to and not much else.

Also to help with sound travel into the cabin, remove the metal plate behind the rear seat :P

Can't you just unbolt it, and move it if its in the way?

If You're comfortable that You know how HICAS works well enough, that You can relocate the control Box and not mess with the sensors in it, then by all means . . . . . knock yourself out Tiger ! !

Here's the work of art, that is My sub Box:

Image049.jpg

Image048.jpg

Image047.jpg

The big relief on top is to clear the HICAS Box, As U can see it's a TIGHT fit to get the 2x10" cones in, that box runs the entire height of the under-parcel-shelf area. It's 38 Litres, Which gives a flat response curve down to 70Hz, where it starts dropping away (like most sealed boxes do) to lose 3db at 45hz, & more below there. That's okay tho - I just give the 45hz boost on the Amp a lil' tweak to compensate. NoiCe ! !

If You're comfortable that You know how HICAS works well enough, that You can relocate the control Box and not mess with the sensors in it, then by all means . . . . . knock yourself out Tiger ! !

Here's the work of art, that is My sub Box:

Image049.jpg

Image048.jpg

Image047.jpg

Lol, I love it, i can imagine the strain, by the belted in parts on the back. I had to belt in a 15" under the parcel shelf of a VL.

Here's my mates boot, labor was a carton of piss as far as i know

post-35240-1179908253_thumb.jpg

Here's mine, gonna tidy it up a bit one day, the floor is all sunken, so prob make a fake floor and fit the subs closer to the walls using the same boxes, apparently right litreage. (doesn't look even, I'm a neat freak when it comes to that sorta shit.

post-35240-1179908117_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...