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Hey ppls,

Checking everything over I noticed I have to place a hell of a lot of preload ~9mm on the actuator to get it over the wastegate flaps stud.

This has to reduce travel I thought so I decided to check how much it opened the flap.

At full travel it only opens the flap ~25-30degree's max. The flap still looks relatively flat and to look inside the housing past the flap you must look around its side.

Its almost as if the actuators arm is too short yet its adjusted all the way out.

So I spaced it out ~9mm with washers to check its travel then.

Its setup with just a pinch of preload so it keeps the flap nice and tight. Essentially the same amount of preload the stock turbo runs.

Now at full travel it opens a good 60-70degree's.

What are your thoughts peoples. Has any one else with a GT35r or GT30 IW housing with the garrett actuator noticed the same 'possible' issue?

I'll be trying to track down an actuator with a longer arm or might just end up modifying this one. Weld a little piece in to it.

post-382-1179381512_thumb.jpg

I agree, 9mm preload seems way too much, i usually run about 1mm, just enough to keep it tight, turbing up the boost by this method with a factory wastegate isnt a good way to do it for the reasons that youve outlined.

Hey Joel

what acuator are you running? what psi?

i run a 18 psi gcg actuator with around 3 - 4 mm of preload on the gate.

works a charm...

9 mm is a little excessive so i would modify the thread to give you something to play with. i would say adding 15mm onto the male threaded section would be about spot on.

Both new Garret turbos i have had the gt30 and the gt35 have both needed welding to get the actuator spot on.

its not hard just quench it in water as soon as you weld it and it will stop everything melting inside.

those washers look like a bad idea as the sheer stress on that will be very high.

Darren

Its a garrett actuator, 15psi.

lol at the washers.. It was just for a test to see how much travel the wastegate had when setup with the correct preload compared to with 9mm preload. I would never have put it on the car like that. :unsure:

I have zipped down to ATS and picked up a suitable sized female rod 15mm longer. Works a charm, with the bracket and kink in the rod it all lines up spot on, but only just. :D

Bill said garrett throw a generic one in thats not suitable. lol

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Also for others that read this and have the same garrett IW with garrett bracket and actuator you will need to buy some bolts. I grabbed what was called M8 x 1.25 16mm long bolts. The bolts on the comp cover at too short and only just grab the compressor cover housing; apparently they can pull out damaging the thread once assembled.

Its a garrett actuator, 15psi.

lol at the washers.. It was just for a test to see how much travel the wastegate had when setup with the correct preload compared to with 9mm preload. I would never have put it on the car like that. :P

I have zipped down to ATS and picked up a suitable sized female rod 15mm longer. Works a charm, with the bracket and kink in the rod it all lines up spot on, but only just. :P

Bill said garrett throw a generic one in thats not suitable. lol

---------

Also for others that read this and have the same garrett IW with garrett bracket and actuator you will need to buy some bolts. I grabbed what was called M8 x 1.25 16mm long bolts. The bolts on the comp cover at too short and only just grab the compressor cover housing; apparently they can pull out damaging the thread once assembled.

:)

URAS, definitely not a bolt on job as you have stated before.

Fingers crossed with a well setup dump that promotes wastegate flow I won't have issues with boost creep. I may get away with it as I'm going to be running 20 odd pounds. Push it until it stops making power on pump. If not.. I'll rip the housing off and throw a larger flapper on it and problem solved.

---------

Cheerz Darren.

Now to make a dump pipe. :S

Who did you have tig yours up? My mig skills are not the best.

I'll be running a 3" turbine dump and 2" wasteagate but I want to run the wastegate all the way down and have it join back in after the last bend that heads towards the cat. If it fits.. Yours looked pretty tight. :)

URAS, definitely not a bolt on job as you have stated before.

Fingers crossed with a well setup dump that promotes wastegate flow I won't have issues with boost creep. I may get away with it as I'm going to be running 20 odd pounds. Push it until it stops making power on pump. If not.. I'll rip the housing off and throw a larger flapper on it and problem solved.

---------

Cheerz Darren.

Now to make a dump pipe. :S

Who did you have tig yours up? My mig skills are not the best.

I'll be running a 3" turbine dump and 2" wasteagate but I want to run the wastegate all the way down and have it join back in after the last bend that heads towards the cat. If it fits.. Yours looked pretty tight. :)

i have access to tig, mig , arc the lot so pm me when your ready

i get good prices from BDL Holdings and AAA exhausts, so if you need mandrel bends yell out.

i just grabbed x1 3" mandrel bend and x1 2" mandrel bend from AAA, wish i could've done mine so it was split, but i didn't have enough room!

Have you got your dump flange? I had mine cut at Lazerworks in nth plympton, cost me some beer cause i know them but i may be able to help u out!

Don't have the dump flange as of yet, I priced up a few bits and they didn't have the 4" 90degree s/steel bend. ~1-1.5week wait. Soooooo I said I'd hang off until they get all the bits.

Probably a good thing also.

The xr6t flange from AAA was $45 and the 4" 90degree bend $50.

All the little bits are adding up to quite a whack. Any help is appreciated. :laugh:

Don't have the dump flange as of yet, I priced up a few bits and they didn't have the 4" 90degree s/steel bend. ~1-1.5week wait. Soooooo I said I'd hang off until they get all the bits.

Probably a good thing also.

The xr6t flange from AAA was $45 and the 4" 90degree bend $50.

All the little bits are adding up to quite a whack. Any help is appreciated. :)

what do u need the 4" pipe for?

URAS, definitely not a bolt on job as you have stated before.

Fingers crossed with a well setup dump that promotes wastegate flow I won't have issues with boost creep. I may get away with it as I'm going to be running 20 odd pounds. Push it until it stops making power on pump. If not.. I'll rip the housing off and throw a larger flapper on it and problem solved.

---------

Cheerz Darren.

Now to make a dump pipe. :S

Who did you have tig yours up? My mig skills are not the best.

I'll be running a 3" turbine dump and 2" wasteagate but I want to run the wastegate all the way down and have it join back in after the last bend that heads towards the cat. If it fits.. Yours looked pretty tight. >_<

i dont remmeber saying st8 bolt on? i remmeber saying it was an average install and poor result....... we ended up going external (better exh housing size) on a nice greddy manifold (modded flange of course).

Even so it only took a few hours to install on the factory manifold (spacer, itake pipe and custom dump)

Edited by URAS
i dont remmeber saying st8 bolt on? i remmeber saying it was an average install and poor result....... we ended up going external (better exh housing size) on a nice greddy manifold (modded flange of course).

Even so it only took a few hours to install on the factory manifold (spacer, itake pipe and custom dump)

I don't remember u saying average install either.. You said something along the lines of it doesn't simply work out of the box as it 'should'.

what do u need the 4" pipe for?

AFM to turbo inlet Pipe.

I don't remember u saying average install either.. You said something along the lines of it doesn't simply work out of the box as it 'should'.

AFM to turbo inlet Pipe.

just a thought.

my intake is the same as what your creating using 4 inch stainless.

but i should mention i used a 70 degree bend not a 90 degree bend.

i have a spare 70 degree bend here in 4 inch mild steel if its any use to you its yours...

Awesome.. I have had a quick fiddle and it 'appears' a 90degree will bolt up but it may require a little chopping etc..

70degree may just be spot on.

I'm still on the gtst stock airbox but with a 100mm cai in to the bottom of the box. Its going to be tight.

Are you running a pod Darren? I can't remember. :O

Awesome.. I have had a quick fiddle and it 'appears' a 90degree will bolt up but it may require a little chopping etc..

70degree may just be spot on.

I'm still on the gtst stock airbox but with a 100mm cai in to the bottom of the box. Its going to be tight.

Are you running a pod Darren? I can't remember. :O

i will go take a pic...

back in a min

Cheers Darren.

I'll have a better look at mine maybe tomorrow.

I've attached an old pic I dug up. The stock airbox positions the afm close towards the block... Looking at it now not sure a 90degree 4" bend will be suitable as its radius won't be tight enough. I'll have to make it fit. :O

post-382-1179484562_thumb.jpg

Cheers Darren.

I'll have a better look at mine maybe tomorrow.

I've attached an old pic I dug up. The stock airbox positions the afm close towards the block... Looking at it now not sure a 90degree 4" bend will be suitable as its radius won't be tight enough. I'll have to make it fit. :O

well you can chop and hack up this mild steel 4 inch bend i have and work out what wil fit then order what you need in stainless.

thats what i got it for but i didnt use it so, you may as well.

I don't remember u saying average install either.. You said something along the lines of it doesn't simply work out of the box as it 'should'.

AFM to turbo inlet Pipe.

but don't u have the .50 front cover? If so you only need 3"!

Also one madrel bend won't work, you need two mandrel bends due to the angles if keeping the standard airbox!

(not as easy as it all seems hey!)

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