Jump to content
SAU Community

Will A S1 Rb25det Ecu Work On A S2 Rb25 Eng?

RB30 Ceffy
 Share

Recommended Posts

RB30 Ceffy Enthusiast

RB30 Ceffy

Posted
Posted (edited)

well I cant really see any differences in the S1 and S2 engine other than the coils. I figure an S1 ecu will work fine for a S2 engine. RB25DET. Anyone know if this should be cool?? Thanks :unsure:

Edited by RB30 Ceffy
RB30 Ceffy Enthusiast

RB30 Ceffy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I've got a series 2 pfc in my s1 no problems I don't think it works the other way around due to the built in igniter required in s2.

Im pretty sure the ignitor is built into the coilpack itself for S2. Ive got the engine running on a RB25DE ecu right now and that has S1 coils and no VVT and it still drives and runs. Its just slow, doesnt know its boosted or vvt. Ive also herd of people converting S2 coils on theyre S1 engines and not changing the ECU. I just used it so I could make sure my wireing was correct. Also I thought the only difference between the RB20 MAF to the RB25 one is an extra ground in the RB20. They have the same maps im pretty sure aswell as S1-S2. If im wrong I would like to know but other than those two things is there any other way a S1 ECU would do my S2 engine any harm? Thanks for the fast reply guys :laugh:

2gceffy Rising Star

2gceffy

Posted
Posted

hey mate

i have a s2 ecu running my s1 engine, i havnt had any problems at all

assuming it would work as you stated the ignitor is in the coils not ecu.. cant really think of any differences that would affect it though.. its a gamble i guess

  • 4 years later...
  • 1 year later...
2FST4U.R33 Community Regular

2FST4U.R33

Posted
Posted

Is it possible to run the S2 motor with all the S1 wiring and ECU?

Transfer the S1 AFM, coils with top ignigter, TPS (throttle body?), O2 sensor? Also can the S2 CAS be modified or will the S1 CAS bolt up?

anyone know the answer?

Have a S1 RB25de with spun bottom end bearing and looking at putting S2 long motor in

Crazy Xav Collaborator

Crazy Xav

Posted
Posted

Is it possible to run the S2 motor with all the S1 wiring and ECU?

Transfer the S1 AFM, coils with top ignigter, TPS (throttle body?), O2 sensor? Also can the S2 CAS be modified or will the S1 CAS bolt up?

You certainly can, I put a S2 RB25 engine in my S1 R33 and used all the bolt ons from my old engine.

works no worries :)

Coolwhip1 Rookie

Coolwhip1

Posted
Posted

You can interchange the motors themselves (S1 and S2) without a problem. The differences lay within the wiring, throttle body, AFM, coils, and some later model O2 sensors (still wiring).

The ECU's do have their differences however, I've seen S2 motors run perfectly fine with S1 ECU's.

Hope that helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...