Installing Hks Gt-rs Questions: Banjo Bolt Position, Copper Washers, Oil Drain Gasket..

[Andi]

Hey guys,

I've started taking off my stock turbo and at the moment everything is unbolted ready to be pulled off except for the damn water/coolant feed line, those brackets that hold the lines steady are f*ckers to get off being behind the engine and all.

Anyway with the new braided lines and banjo bolts I wanted to know whether or not I had to try to line up the hole in the bolt to the hole off the line? I'm guessing to do this I'll mark the top of the bolt with a market or something and make sure its running straight with the lines? Or would the oil/water run 'around' the inside of the braided line ending (whats this called?) and find its way through the hole?

Also, I seemed to have only recieved 2 thick (I mean alot thicker than the standard ones) copper washers. I'm planning to buy a whole bunch of new ones instead of using the standard ones and afaik copper washes are curved and need to be crushed. So does it matter which way I put the washer on or does the curve side have to faced specifically? Can I just use thin ones I can get from any auto store or do I need to find THICK ones like the 2 that came with my turbo?

And lastly, where can I get a oil drain gasket? It's that weird diamond looking shape thing?

Any help will be appreciated, thanks in advance. Would really like to get this all done by tomorrow.

Thanks,

Andy

[Andi]

Oh I forgot:

How many bolts with a oil restrictor should there be? Is it just 2? Both being the oil feed line, one on turbo and the other on the block?

I only got one bolt with a restrictor, can I just re-use a stock bolt on the block if one is there?

[Beer Baron]

the hole in the banjo bolt doesn't have to line up with the flow path of the banjo. just bolt it in tight.

some copper washers (called crush washers) are dome shaped so they are desinged to do one way, but it wont matter too much for you as they are sealing on both sides.

i would say just one restrictor bolt is fine.

[MANWHORE]

1. Use their banjo bolts

2. crush washers are good. Nissan DID NOT use crush washers stock, and they didn't leak. But I like crush washers - about $20 for the whole set at pirtek. I put the thin side up towards the bolt head (if you think about it, the turbo has a bigger edge, bolt head might be smaller). Usually the crush washers are really small though so would work the other way too.

3. water line behind the block is easy. I just did one the other day. The line reaches around the other side of the block and joins with this other rubber hose. What I do, is I undo both brackets, then take that rubber hose off too from the other side and pull it through. The bracket on the side can be undone easily, the other one, I used a spanner that I cut in half, and put down through the coilpack cover gap.

[Andi]

Thanks guys. Got some copper washers from Pirtek and got the turbo off yesterday. Heres some pictures of stock and the GTRS side by side.

I got some teflon tape as well, should I bother using it on the bolts? Pirtek guys told me I should use it for the coolant feed line where the silicon line joins the braided line with an adaptor.

And where can I get a gasket for the oil drain adaptor? Or can I just use any old gasket paper cut out ot the right shape?

Edited May 19, 2007 by Andi

[nizmo_freek]

So did everything bolt up perfectly? or was there things that you had to modify? would be keen to know if you had any problems fitting it.

Cheers

[MANWHORE]

no need for teflon tape - that's what the washer is for. the washer is the gasket. Just tighten it correctly and it won't leak.

[MANWHORE]

oil drain gasket - nissan. only a few dollars.

I'd prefer a genuine one then making one out of crap gasket paper that mgiht seep - save the hassle of taking it off later.

[Andi]

Cool,

Got a part numer Manwhore?

I just used teflon on the bolt<->line connection. Also how much am I suppose to tighten the banjo bolts? Keep on going until it 'feels' tight enough or until it stops?

Cheers!

[MANWHORE]

I did my banjos up tight, but not give yourself a hernia tight. Nowhere near the maximum I could tighten them - they seem pretty soft, so it looks like it's possible to turn the head right off them if you go max tightness.

The way that a wiseman described it to me is the washers are just like your sump washers. Do it up as tight as you'd do that.

What I found, is that there's plenty of room to check and tighten after if needs be anyways.

No part number - just tell them what you need, they'll look it up.

[Birnie]

Any chance of taking some better pics with more light? I can't see diddley..

The physical size of the unit looks good, very close to stock

[Birnie]

..actually, rechecked the pics, they're not too bad.

The rear pic is bad though with so much build up but that can't be helped.

[Andi]

Sorry no more pictures, the turbo is in the car now with everything bolted up.

I primed the turbo by unplugging the CAS and kept cranking until I saw oil pressure. Then I started her up and let her idle for 10 minutes.

I threw a cardboard mat underneath to check for leaks and thankfully it didn't seem like anything was leaking but it was abit dark so I'll make sure again tomorrow.

That said, I do have one concern. I smelt something in the engine bay like it was a light burning/cooking smell, I think its the water line or something. I flushed the coolant and poured a whole new bottle of Nulon Red 5 Year Concentrate 2.5L with ~3.5L of Distilled water, could this be the smell?

Also, I've noticed that some of my braided lines are abit long. Are they suppose to touch nothing else at all? My water feed hose off the block goes all the way around to the turbo side and connects to the braided line to the turbo just abit under the rocker cover, is this okay?

Again thanks all for the advice! Really appreciate it as its helped me heaps.

EDIT: forgot to say that some of the lines are sitting on other things. Like the water/coolant braided feed is sitting against the dump pipe, and the oil feed is sitting against the turbo etc. I did make sure none of the lines are touching anything that could potentially melt/burn. Is it okay to leave it against metal things?

Edited May 21, 2007 by Andi

[MANWHORE]

Nope, it's perfectly normal to smell. it's burning oil. You're bound to have a touch of oil when installing it. Think about how hot the exhaust gets. First time I saw that I shat myself, but nah, you're right, as long as if there are no leaks etc.

Not good for lines to sit on the exhaust housing or dump. I always make sure that they clear.

[Andi]

Thanks for the quick reply Manwhore. So make sure ALL the lines are clear yes? Its okay for the rubber/silicon water feed line to be touching the block of couse right? I re-inserted it back into the coilpack cover thing.

[MANWHORE]

In regards to the silicon touching the block - who knows. I suppose it's safe to say that no sort of plastic/rubber/silicon likes heat. It's all a matter of how much. I'd try and keep it off the block (if possible). Even though it doesn't get crazy hot, it still gets too hot to touch - try touching your cam cover after a long drive (don't, i'm just saying).

I'd try and keep it off if possible, but if you really can't, then hey, gaskets touch heat, but they do die after like 5-10 years.

I mean, I know the turbo catridge gets hot and everything, but I just don't see the need to have an additional line sitting on a glowing exhaust housing/dump. The stock setup wasn't like that, so I try and keep everything off the hot stuff. It's nice and neat anyways.

I'm sure your braids are probably a bit longer. They usually are, since people prefer that then making them short. You should still be able to work with it.

Hope that helps

[SECURITY]

you should've insulated the braided hoses before putting them on, especially if they're sitting close to the turbo/exhaust/block. braided lines are only beneficial if they arent touching anything that hot.

[MANWHORE]

I don't think it's really good if any line touches the dump/exhaust housing. Even the stock lines on my car, I made sure they weren't touching. They were in the beginning, but I massaged them out a bit.

It's fairly easily possible to install the braided line without touching the housing/dump. Insulating is a possibility, but i find it easier to just get the right length, and position them well.

[SECURITY]

id never use a straight line for an oil feed for a turbo. the reason why the standard one has that loop in it is so oil stays in there when you shut your motor off, so oil pressure is reached earlier as the motor kicks over (so turbo doesnt fcuk up).

are you going to be monitoring where they go when you're on boost and pulling a fair few g's on a track or at the drags? unless you hire a smurf to sit in your engine bay, i'd doubt you'd ever really know.

then say when they're swinging around they get caught on something hella hot? how often do you check your lines?

[Andi]

Thanks for input guys. I've managed to play with the water/coolant feed line and its no longer touching the dump but is now resting against the gearbox housing, this is okay Manwhore? Its abit hard to manuvoure it without disconnecting the line which would mean coolant pissing out everywhere.

I checked my coolant return and that doesn't seem to be touching anything so thats fine, but the oil feed line is touching a pipe. I think it may be one of those AC pipes, heres a picture to show. Should this be okay?

Sorry for all the questions guys, this is the first time I've installed a turbo and I'd like it not to die on me.

EDIT: Joe, when you say insulation what do you suggest to use? I wouldn't mind doing the coolant feed line as it is fairly close to the dump pipe.

Edited May 22, 2007 by Andi