Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have to get a new turbo for my GTSt as the old (stock) one died a sudden death. The guys doing the job have been ringing around to see what will fit my car with minimum fuss. (bearing one - not ceramic).

I know (from reading other posts mainly) that there are quite a few different turbos that people use but everyone the performance guy's spoke to said nothing will just bolt on but you will have to do ALOT of plumbing. (and hence make the job more and more expensive.) I want to get some change out of $3000 for the job.

Is this true? Is there anything that will just bolt on (or not require hours and hours of extra plumbing work)

Thanks

Guy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16915-turbo-for-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Hi Lachlan,

To cut a very long story short, my car dealer missdiagnosed an oil leak from the turbo area of car. Nothing to worry about I was told. Fix at next service. Said a oil pipe must have gone brittle. They do that with the heat etc...

I ordered a Microtech ECU and decided to get everything tuned, services etc when the computer came in. This however took about four months.

When the service guy took the housing of the Turbo to fix leak, he discovered that the seal was rooted and there was a HEAP of 'play' in there. (I could presssomething in and out that I shouldn't have been able to)

He even refuses to drive the car in his workshop as he is scared the turbo will break/seize (whatever they do when wrecked !)

I had the boost set on standard. I do not drive hard at all. I have never raced my car. However I now believe the previous owner did.

It used to have a HKS EVC with boost set to 12psi. I am now selling that. It has a huge intercooler now. Fuel cut off defender ??? POD, and I think a heap of other stuff. The mechanic said 'My car should be sponcered by HKS !!'

I am really annoyed at the moment as I have to pay for a new turbo just four months after I bought the car. Even though the thing was on the way out when I bought the car !

Sorry for this rant, but I am left with a sick feeling in my stomach over all this... I don't know who to blame - me for not knowing anything about these cars when I bought it or the car dealer seeing me coming !

Thanks

Guy

The problem is that most ceramic turbos are "on their way out"

Think about the car being around 7 years old, and most people don't buy a performance car to drive around slowly in.

Most if not all import performance cars have been thrashed in their lives!

Thats just part and parcel of buying an import.

Perhaps if you wanted to drive a car slowly then a holden would of been more suited to your needs :P

Hi flow, is when they take off the turbine and compressor covers and bore them out, allowing bigger (steel) wheels to be placed in there.

If you dont have alot of money to spend, you could buy a good second hand turbo for $400-$700 and put that on. If you want to high flow your old one when you have the money, and sell the 2nd hand one that you put on in the mean time to recoupe the money you spent.

Just some ideas

High flow involves:

Turbine Wheel - replaced and upgraded with a inconel(steel) wheel , either stage 1 or 2

Compressor Wheel - replaced and upgraded with T04 wheel, either stage 1 or 2

Bearing Pack - replace with an XTR ball bearing package

Turbine Housing - machine to accept either of the larger wheels

Compressor Housing - machined to accept either of the larger hi flow wheels

Wastegate Actuator - standard or upgradeable to have higher boost pressure as standard

Actually DREMEN, I never thought about it that way ! I don't drive slowely - I just don't race the car at the strip. When computer, "TURBO" etc are done though I will see what I can do the 1/4 in though...

I want to see how I go against some of the hot Starlets/GTiR's/etc that are around Toowoomba !!

Anyway , thanks again for help people...

Catcha

Freebaggin,

No it's not stuffed. Actually what happend was I had an alarm fitted, and the when I got the car back all the boost settings were gone and it was a real pain to reset everything. Real pain.

A mate offered me $500 for it (an old BMW he has done up - 12 seconds !!) and the guy at the performance centre said that I didn't need it when the Microtech was fitted so I took the cash.

Aparently I can bet a much better one for $800 if I realy wanted one. (not sure what brand though - Autospeed.com have been advertising them lately)

The guy at the performacnce centre actually chose a turbo this arvo. I will get the specs tommow. I know it is rated to 500hp and can easily be boosted to 20lb. it is $2300 + fitting (approx $400) - (I just have to sell my TV/stereo/video camera first - lol, so I can afford it.)

He said later on I can then up the injectors and do something simple to the turbo (I forget what he said) and "It will really get crackin" He mentioned 300HP at the wheels !!

gjb977 just remember the stock engine internals wont like running at anything above 16-17psi for long/hard periods, the injectors will need replacing to keep up with the flow plus you'll need an aftermarket ecu to make the most of it all without a little bit of careful thought you could end up doing more damage then good. Do searches on these forums, you'll find a lot of information on them for pretty good sources in regards to what you can and cant do on the stock internal engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...