Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

clutch doesnt have oil on it chief. if u get oil on it its as good as buggered as it makes it slip which is bad. if ya get a tiny bit on it possibly try an clean it off with some solvent. otherwise its just gona get bad. i think you may be talking about the master cylinder fluid. which is just brake fluid. you can change it when installing a new clutch. or just flush it out when it starts to get dark

Thanks guys.

yeah I was talking about gearbox oil. do you HAVE to replace it when putting in a new clutch?

also, how often should you change the lsd oil? same time as gearbox oil?

thanks

Edited by BaysideBlue
I've always gave it a quick clutch bleed also, mineral dot4 brake fluid.

are you saying clutch fluid is the same as brake fluid? or clutch bleed meaning brake master cylinder bleed?

another question: so theres gearbox oil and clutch fluid they are not the same thing right? now when i get a new clutch ist worthwhile to replace both gearbox oil and clutch fluid?

sorry im still confused.

Yes, clutch fluid is the same as brake fluid. Clutch fluid is in the little cylinder beside the brake master cylinder, in the engine bay. It is a hydraulic fluid, and works the clutch basically the same way as the brake fluid works the brakes.

Gearbox oil is an oil, ie lubricant. It allows the gears in the gearbox to work together smoothly. It is not really necessary to replace either the clutch fluid or the gearbox oil just because you are replacing the clutch.

Can I suggest you look at a website "howstuffworks" - something like that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or get a guy in his early fiftys to do it. A single good "oof" and about two cracks from his lower back is about the right tightness...
    • It's impossible to convey what it will feel like to get the right torque. But you can develop a feel for it. A 900mm breaker bar is.....f**king huge. I only use a normal ~400mm one. But with 900mm being very nearly a metre, and the right torque being in the order of 100Nm, then you're going to need a bit over 100N of force, which is about 10 kg. So if you practice using the bar pulling up, instead of pushing down, then it will be about the same effort as lifting a 10kg bucket of water. That's what the pressure against your fingers should feel like. Ish. If you use a more typical length breaker, then it's about twice that. So a good 20 litre bucket, or a little bit more.
    • Also, if anyone has a torque wrench around Williams Landing area and can lend it to me for like 5 mins - I got 4 bottles of Furphy left and I’ll throw that in with a Happy meal 😂
    • So today I decided to bleed my brake fluid, which meant to the wheels came off the car at my garage for the first time. I only had a 90cm breaker bar with me and I noticed that some 1 or 2 lug nuts were a bit hard to get loose (from when the shop did the coilovers) Now.... when it came to putting them back on, I didn't want to put all my weight and overtighten them. So I hand tightened as much as possible and then put normal pressure on the edge of the breaker bar and tightened it until I couldn't turn it anymore without putting in an effort. Do you think that is tight enough? Or is that still too tight?  They are tighter than finger tight. Last thing I want is to have them strip or warp sh*t. But hard times mean I can't just go down to Supercheap and get a torque wrench 🥺
    • Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while:  At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees. 
×
×
  • Create New...