Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after installing my HU last time, i have a feeling some of my wiring was rushed and i've shorted a few wires. Not enough to make the fuse blow, but enough i think to have done some damage. I have 2 wierd symptoms:

1. when i press the cd eject button, the unit hangs. The music keeps playing, but all the faceplate lights go off and the CD doesnt eject.

2. my remote turn on signal wire is working in reverse now. It's 0V when the HU is on and 12V when i turn the car off!

recon these are related issues, or the thing is just old and buggered (almost 10 year old pioneer)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169285-did-i-blow-my-hu/
Share on other sites

if i REALLY needed it to work, id be picking your brain chris, as replacing one IC is not a hassle....but i'm lazy AND cheap, so i'm not going to do anything :)

Ive rewired the amp remote to take a signal from the acc./ign. line, which is almost as good. As for the CD that doesnt eject, i dont really care, as my primary music sources are a) radio and b) CarPC. EVERY other function on the unit works except for remote turn-on and eject, so it'll do for now.

cheers,

sean.

Sorry in advance for hijacking the thread, but speaking of blown headunits..

I have a Pioneer 5750, maybe 18months old.. I was driving around a roundabout with music playing and suddenly i heard a loud pop and from then onwards all i can hear is a nasty humming sound that pops and crackles... no music at all, but the HU responds and displays everything as usual.

When i disconnect the RCAs from the HU to the amp the humming stops, so i am quite sure it is head unit related.

I hope its wiring but i don't think it will be as i installed the unit myself, i soldered and heat shrunk all the wiring, no electrical tape anywhere.

Before i pull it out to have a fiddle/check, any advice? Is it most likely stuffed?

get a shop to tear it down too hard to tell you what is actually wrong with it.

Thanks for replying.. from memory the unit cost me around $350ish and i know that electrical repairs arent cheap so if its stuffed i would really have to weigh up whether it is worth the hassle and $$ of getting it repaired :D

if you have done the output IC then its a $130-150 repair. the chip is most of it.

Thats reassuring i guess.. Not sure if it means anything but it has never powered speakers, always had it hooked up to an amp for speakers and sub via RCAs just like it still is. It isnt directly connected to any speakers.

do you have audio out of the unit itself? have you checked the speakers for shorts to the car frame? some things to look at before you write that unit off.

The only sound that comes out of it is the nasty constant humming noise, this happens in every mode and regardless of volume.

Before i pull it out i plan on connecting up my ipod(or something!) with a 3.5mm--->2rca cable to my amp to see if the amps and speakers play music normally, if they do then i was going to assume that it is head unit related. Would that be an ok test?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
×
×
  • Create New...