Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Shaun for your pictures today via pm.

A well known RB NZ tuner has emailed me back today (i sent the email a while back) and informed me that he plumbs the turbo outlet into the front of the engine. Just makes for a completely different perspective on things.

I had a look through the GTR manual last night and couldnt find anything really in there. 300 odd pages of it though doesnt make for the most interesting reading.

After speaking to a guy who makes radiators for a living, i can confirm that the bottom of the radiator (as per discopotatos comments) is in fact the colder piece of the two, and the top is the hot side.

So in theory the thermostat is regulating cold water into the engine so plumbing the hot turbo water in there is a big no no.

Ive heard people taking their feeds from the back of the engine. In theory this is wrong as the cold water is pumped into the bottom of the block (where the feed taps from) and then passes through the head and then is returned through below the plenum. The hose in question runs from the back of the head.

Plumbing it (outlet) into the water hoses at the back of the engine or into the water outlet on the plenum will effectively do the same thing, however plumbing it into the plenum is going to be better because the hose is in view and easy to access should anything go wrong, and also we arent recirculating more hot water into the engine.

Ive attached 2 pictures of how RIPS in NZ does things and also the standard rb20det. It took me a while to get hold of this as i had no access to a stock turbo car, nor had my engine with me.

I hope it answers a few questions about water lines on an rb**det

post-21312-1196847933_thumb.jpg

post-21312-1196847952_thumb.jpg

Sir racer as far as I'm concerned the inlet manifold is part of the engine so if you can avoid it then so much the better . Really anything that transfers heat to the coolant (ie turbos/water oil heat exchangers etc) really needs to

have as direct a path as possible to the radiators top tank because you want to transfer the heat input to the radiator not the engine or its externals .

I think the reason Nissan went the way they did was to simplify the overall package and makes life easier on the production line . Also they know what the thermal output of their engines is and cater to that plus a margin for reliability .

Honestly the best system I know of is the one I described before . Find water at the lowest point in the block you can get and and plumb water through the turbo and on to the engines water return to the radiators top tank . That pic from RIPS clearly shows his turbo coolant return to the engines water outlet though if you wanted to make work for yourself a tube bewteen cuts/shut in the top hose and a barb for the inlet wold work as well . Actually if you were having an aluminium radiator fabbed you could spec a barb fitting in the back of the top tank on the near side to avoid running the water tube across the front of the cylinder head .

Just thinking about high mounted turbos for a sec , if they are above the highest point in the engines cooling system then its going to require an even higher mounted water header tank to work reliably at all .

Cheers A .

I get what your saying and ideally plumbing the return into the radiator would be a good idea, however for the majority of us running stock radiators this isnt really an options.

For me it comes down to a case of below the plenum or around the back of the head. The way routing the line around the back of the head is more asthetically pleasing however the more logical way would be to run it around the front, where access is easy should anything need checking.

If or when i do go to an aftermarket radiator i will contemplate a fitting going into the top as i can then tidy things up somewhat, and avoid having a line running around the front of the engine.

Ok, so its been confirmed that the hot water exits the engine via the top radiator hose, and cool water enters the engine via the bottom hose and through the thermostat.

So does this mean that the cool water (turbo feed) should be taken from the low point in the exhaust side of the block (near #6 piston), and the post turbo water should be returned into the top radiator hose via the nipple on the neck at the front of the engine? If so, thats fine and easy but makes me feel a bit stupid because i certainly chose the long way round.

The only other thing is; what do i do about the feed at the back of the engine underneath the plenum. This is connected to the thermostat housing. Do i just block it off?

Its been so long that i forget what it was there for in the standard set up.

This is pretty important because im now thinking that if i was routing water incorrectly, it could have been a contributing factor in my engine failure because of increased thermal load etc.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun
So does this mean that the cool water (turbo feed) should be taken from the low point in the exhaust side of the block (near #6 piston), and the post turbo water should be returned into the top radiator hose via the nipple on the neck at the front of the engine?

Thats exactly what i figured out. No one seems able to confirm this though !

Also a lot of people seem to block up the water pipe thats on the front of the engine. Even seen this on some jap race engines.

So the evidence contradicts the theory that makes sense !!

Yeah, well ive blocked up the water pipe on the pront of the engine and used the other two sources of coolant, but apparently this is not ideal. Its easy to change, but i just need some confirmation from those who know more than me.

Also, i think maybe its not a good idea to use the big Jap teams as a comparison because i think they'd probably be more inclined to have a dedicated return straight to the radiator or something like that. When i did mine, i saw that many of these cars had blocked off the front return and assumed that they used the other two sources. Maybe that was wrong.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun

the engine always gets hotter around the rear because water has to travel from the front to the rear of the block thats, why the head gaskets normally let go around piston 5 an 6 if it gets overheated

Hey Shaun,

As ive mentioned in PM RIPS the NZ RB tuner (thats all he does really) has told me to route the return to the front of the engine and take the water from the piece on the block near #5 cylinder.

What you have done is basically just route the water return in a little earlier. I wouldnt think that would have made a massive difference however as the rb20/25's run their water returns there stock (i didnt know that until the other day).

Quite a few people have this wrong so its not a bad mistake at all.

The post by discopotato above is bang on!

Edited by SirRacer

No worries Byron, thanks for that. I still might change it though just so its spot on. I like discopotato's idea of returning it straight into the top tank of an aluminium radiator. Pity i dont have one.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun

A thought - Instead of requiring a new alloy rad to plumb in the turbo return to, and the concern with high mounts being the highest link in the cooling system; use a ARC style air removal tank (~$300) (or one of the much cheaper derivative's) and weld a fitting in.

Most people mount the top breather tank, high on the driver side strut tower; which would be higher then the turbo cartridge - booya :D

Edited by GeeTR

I dont get what you mean. Are you saying to return the water into the breather tank?? There is already a nipple on the front of the engine to return the hot water to the radiator (on the RB256 anyway). I just liked the idea because you wouldnt really see the water return line if it went straight into the radiator. Its just an aesthetic thing i think.

Shaun.

I don't get what you mean...

It was a utopic response to Disco, who was suggesting the thermosiphon killing effect of having the turbo cartridge, as the highest point in the system.

Taking a the feed from low in the block, and feeding it high to a breather tank would tick all the required wish list box's including...

I just liked the idea because you wouldn't really see the water return line if it went straight into the radiator.

... without needing a alloy rad, as the return could be hidden around the back of the engine and fed into the breather tank.

Edited by GeeTR

Ok, i get what you mean. Ill definately see whether my turbo core is higher than my radiator cap. If so, ill install a breather tank. I dont think it'll be quite as elaborate as the pic above though. Bit of money in those earls fittings!

Shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All of those are near new/brand new/done under 10,000km! This means something! It also doesn't necessarily mean anything.... The idea is of course to fit wider tyres and rims, and to go with engine head updates, I'm sure it will be faster the subsequent time out. But TBH the difference will largely be in driver mod between one day and the next I'm sure. To say I am unseasoned after many years away from even driving remotely fast is an understatement. Giving it half throttle and "Whoa, that's a bit excessive.." and realizing I'm doing 80kmh in a 100 zone is evidence enough lol. I have noticed that there is heat haze/steam/air/something absolutely steaming out of the car after parking it. I didn't drive it in the 40C day for testing yesterday, but on Christmas day it was ~32 and you could literally see the air coming out from the bay after parking the car. Whether that's enough though..   
    • I'll take clutch for 50 Eddie.
    • Standard GTRs are boring and there plenty of them, do what ever you want to it and just remember nothing about them is cheap anymore and if you’re picky about how you want things done it gets even worse.    if it’s an n1 or something very limited then maybe care more about it’s heritage 
    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
×
×
  • Create New...