Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

these are my brakes

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...st&id=85173

i just bought r34 gtt rims but they wont clear the front calliper, i dunno why :S i thought they would clear them fine but obviously not.

full details here

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=233226

bit of info:

car had aftermarket rims, i dont have any r32 or 33 rims to try, i will try borrow some of a mate.

calliper "nissan" logo has already been ground back

the calliper rubs the inside of the rim; where it connects to the hub

just a couple of q.s

1. could they not fit because the car was orig an auto? might have been n/a but i dont think it was

2. i have the proper hub spacers, but the centre bit it too wide for the centre of the rim.. what can i do about that?

3. what type of brakes do i have?

thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169774-r34-gtt-rims-wont-fit-r32/
Share on other sites

From the sounds of it, if his having problems with clearing the front brakes it would be GTT rims because the offset is like +40 or greater so they stick closer inside the guard.

IF they were GTR34 rims he shouldn't have problems clearing the tiny brakes on his car compared to brembos off a gtr34 its just that it'll look werid ( i think) because of the +30 offset so the rims will stick out of the guards like a 4wd!

i wouldn't run spacers, whats the point just to get some stock gtt rims on the car, just offload them and source some other rims.

thats my 2cents.

It looks like you have regular old r32gtst brakes on there.

It's weird that the rims are fouling as i have seen GTT rims on an s15 which has a near identical caliper and same size rotor and there was heaps of room.

Do you have a pic of the rim on the car showing where it fouls?

yeh thats just touching..... i have in the past (shitter car) just grinded/shaved abit of the caliper and painted em would not notice if u werent told.... to fit wheels and never had a problem with it but i shouldnt recomend dodgy fixes haha

Edited by rgr34

odd... I've fitted them perfectly, and seen quite a few other 32 with them on.. maybe you have some slightly different discs? although even then I wouldn't have thought that wouldn't have made a massive difference. I have DB4000 discs.. I am sure the calipers sat out further (towards the edge of the rim) than you have it sitting.

Here we are, when I was test fitting some ages ago..

post-1332-1179907131_thumb.jpg

tht is really weird. I too have seen stock gtt wheels on an R32,33,S15, Stageas with no problems. If it came of an R34GTT and doesn't fit ur car this would imply you have bigger brakes than a stock GTT?? Your brakes or discs are probably not factory.

tht is really weird. I too have seen stock gtt wheels on an R32,33,S15, Stageas with no problems. If it came of an R34GTT and doesn't fit ur car this would imply you have bigger brakes than a stock GTT?? Your brakes or discs are probably not factory.

Agreed.

These are pretty tight too :thumbsup:

GOTclearance.jpg

dude, the spacer goes behind the wheel. not on the top of it.

lol no shit Sherlock

tht is really weird. I too have seen stock gtt wheels on an R32,33,S15, Stageas with no problems. If it came of an R34GTT and doesn't fit ur car this would imply you have bigger brakes than a stock GTT?? Your brakes or discs are probably not factory.

yeah i think i just got aftermarket brakes

i just got a pair of slip on spacers, and after 15 mins of driving the studs were around 15-25degrees loose (if that makes any sence).

I think ill have to get the proper spacers...

the aftermarket discs make bugger all difference, unless they have a bell that is the wrong offset for your car (which is unlikely as they wouldn' fit on the hub properly if that was the case). The caliper and rotor size looks completely stock to me.

thanks for the no shit sherlock remark too. I'll remember that next time i'm trying to help you trouble shoot your problem. the picture made me think it's possible you were putting them on the wrong way. I still can't figure out why you put up a pic of a spacer sitting in front of your wheel then if you know they fit behind it?

edit: figured it out better from your other thread.

thanks for the no shit sherlock remark too. I'll remember that next time i'm trying to help you trouble shoot your problem. the picture made me think it's possible you were putting them on the wrong way. I still can't figure out why you put up a pic of a spacer sitting in front of your wheel then if you know they fit behind it?

edit: figured it out better from your other thread.

soz dude, i honestly didnt mean to be rude, just wanted to use an old saying i havnt used in a while :sorcerer:

just gonna get some bolt on spacers

question - rb2532 is in your avatar.

Is that a rb25de r32, that u have converted to use the r32 gtst 5 stud rotors and brakes?

Maybe them spacers were used on a different car to fit them rims to it. Cant u just fit some skyline spacers?

Edited by Bl4cK32
question - rb2532 is in your avatar.

Is that a rb25de r32, that u have converted to use the r32 gtst 5 stud rotors and brakes?

Maybe them spacers were used on a different car to fit them rims to it. Cant u just fit some skyline spacers?

rb25det

was converted in jap, im thinkin the car was auto non turbo 4 stud, but im not sure which brakes its got..

I bolted up a set to my R32 and found the calliper touched the inside of the rim slightly. They require a thin spacer.

OR.

Throw on a set of R33 GTST or R32 GTR front callipers.

Have you had any problems with ur wheel nuts loosening up?

I have after 15 mins of driving :S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you want to do a single throttle body conversion easily, you won't need to pull anything apart. Take the linkage from your throttle off the linkage controlling the ITBs. Now open the ITBs wide open, and lock the linkages in said position. Now add a single throttle body onto the front of your inlet plenum. No it's not ideal for the last nth of a kw, but it'll be a lot better than what you're already trying to do...   PS, ITBs can be so damn hard to tune from, because roughly 20% movement in a throttle body equates to a change in roughly 80% of its flow (Hence power). When you add up the flow limitations of those small throttle bodys, it is a LOT higher than that of a single large throttle. Hence, TPS is very very sensitive with them, and you do a LOT of work with sensor fusion, and some Maths behind the scenes to make those blends nice, and be smooth.
    • Yep, when Haltech purchased Adaptronic, and all of the Adaptronic staff, including Andy went with it, it took Haltech to the next level. Haltech wanted Adaptronic as they wanted things like Andy's fuel models, and some other IP, AND they wanted Andy too as he is brilliant! Andy has spoken about the incompatibilities between the old 1500 stuff vs Nexxus, and it totally makes sense. It's not JUST software that is different, there is huge changes in the underlying hardware too. It's why Haltech has had soooo many changes in the last couple of years, in terms of Hardware, and Software, and why it has become so damn Amazing. Why do you think guys like Rob Dahm with his quad rotor, went from running Adaptronic's to running Haltechs? Andy. Pretty much, Haltech these days, is Adaptronic, but with more funds behind it, and more staff, and hence Andy's visions, and visions of other people that he helps shape their great visions, into amazing new products. All the new Nexxus gear, whole new software for it, new and better dashboards, the apps that will run on headunits and NOT be slow to respond! I understand people being burnt in the past, but if you're ragging on a company, about products and issues from many years ago, it's more a reflection on yourself, not looking or keeping up with new stuff. In which case, those people should be going back to PowerFC and Nistunes as the ECU's to rave on about...
    • Right, but I thought the problem has been for a while now that even if you know manifold pressure + throttle position you still have non-linearity and aliasing issues vs actual engine load? One way I can see things simplifying is going DBW, then all air going into the engine is represented by the throttle position. As opposed to a random bimetallic strip vaguely linked to engine temperature opening and closing a shutter or some random power steering air valve suddenly allowing a bunch of bypass air. But the same throttle position/RPM at ~atmospheric MAP in different gears is not guaranteed to be same engine load? Honestly, ITBs are of such dubious value IMO. I don't know why these things are hyped up so much. The main benefit as far as I can tell is you reduce the likelihood of cross-cylinder EGR scavenging with significant cam overlap at idle. I would absolutely run speed density and be done with it if not for this fairly esoteric control problem.
    • Hah dont worry, my adult brain has this conversation every single day. Dont waste your money, invest more of it into shares, pay down the mortgage. Then the bedtime insta doom scrolling begins and after being bombarded with gtr's my mind is set: im definitely getting one! I have the current model mx5 as the weekender, but i just miss my boost and literally like your username, the sututu's that come with it. I remember with my 2nd supra, as it had twins and vvti, they used to spool real early, like 1,500rpm so you could just be a spooly boy all day long. Some people say they get over it after a while, not me tho. 
    • If you need to refinance your mortgage and reset the loan terms back to 30 years and cash out on your equity for "investment" purposes *cough* car parts, I can help 😊
×
×
  • Create New...