Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if its a justjap or one of those generic brands of front mounts that go for about 350 itll fit.

those front mount kits fit the 32/33/34 pretty much all the same way.

ive got a 33 kit on my 32 onli thing is u gotta trim a bit of the pipe that goes back to the inlet manifold as it comes too far foward and hits the radiator shroud.

My just jap 33 kit fits mine, but I wouldn't do it again.

The intercooler had to go on an angle (over exagerated, but the angle I mean, is if you hold it flat, you push one the left side towards the rear of the car, and the right side towards the front of the car. It also had to be moutned on an ablge the other direction too, but that's no big deal.

After that was done (and the front bar/the reinforcement bar was chopped, it only JUST fit (it was a JUST Jap kit...haha) and the pipe/tanks don't line up, I occcasionally blow a pipe cause of it....could be fixed with a 45 degree silcone, but that costs $100 so it's not gonna happen.

What I had to do;

- Cut hole in wall near right wheel

- Cut re-enforcement bar

- cut front bar to get the cooler to fit (centre support, side supports + shortened the depth so it would mount)

- cut the fan so it would fit

I think that was all

SOOOOOOOOOOO, short story long - if you are buying new, get the 32 kit, if its second hand and an awesome price, it will fit.... just not line up as well as the 32 kit.

Edited by eXc

is it 100% really a 32 kit? cause I did that too. I said specifically, it is a 32 kit, not a 33? and they said yes. I get it, and it had 33kit on it, so i rang them "oh no...it just comes in that box...its definartly a 32 kit" then i looked at it all mounted everything and was like, there is no way its a 32 kit, call them back and they said "oh...well it's a 33 kit, but you're the first person to tell us it doesnt line up properly...we always sell the 33 kits to 32 guys.....if you want we can get you a 32 one, but it will take 6 weeks or something.."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...