Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im thinking of making my own fibreglass airbox based on the stock one, but to accommodate a pod inside it plus induction from underneath rather than the stock snorkel.

anyone got any tips for me? love to see some aftermarket versions to give me some ideas!

Cheers, Bart.

Edited by bj_dove
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169851-diy-fibreglass-airbox/
Share on other sites

i started once

cut out the templates out of cardboard

masked the area off with think layers of tape to create a buffer between the painted engine bay and where the glass would be layed.

then i ran out of time that day, few days later the tape had all come unstuck so i ripped it out and just made an alloy one up.

this idea is probably the BEST option to take to ensure a completely sealed unit from heat. and once you peel the cardboard off the outside of the box you make, just line it with a heat shield material and it will be perfect.

bj_dove Dude ! Where are you located ? I have one completed in fiberglass. It uses the original snorkel as well. Took me a very long time to get exactally right and Im not keen on posting pics because of people copying the style.

I am still trying to find one that suits what I want. I am thinking about a Plazmaman alloy one

Why don't you want people copying the style? Isnt that the idea of the forum to help each other out?

Oh yes ! I have helped a lot of brothers out on this forum for free and at my own expense as well and not thought twice about it cause thats what you do for people in a club. I put hundreds of hours into the development of that air box and I should just give it away ????? And dont get me wrong I aint after any financial gain for what I do and if someone asks to see it arrange to meet me and see it in person and have a chat on how it was done and I'll help out with them making one for themselves. Im cool with that.

Oh yes ! I have helped a lot of brothers out on this forum for free and at my own expense as well and not thought twice about it cause thats what you do for people in a club. I put hundreds of hours into the development of that air box and I should just give it away ????? And dont get me wrong I aint after any financial gain for what I do and if someone asks to see it arrange to meet me and see it in person and have a chat on how it was done and I'll help out with them making one for themselves. Im cool with that.

No worries mate... understood.

I was just really keen to see it, the more ideas I can get the better.

Yeah I'd love to have one of these fabricated to suit a pod but to use the factory snorkel. Ive seen a few around for sale but im waiting to see a bulletproof version for example the other ones ive seen are not fully enclosed and allow hot air in or you cant use the pod brace to make sure the pod doesnt move. havent seen any around yet. I swear if someone sold one of these they'd make a killing.

  • 1 month later...
Yeah I'd love to have one of these fabricated to suit a pod but to use the factory snorkel. Ive seen a few around for sale but im waiting to see a bulletproof version for example the other ones ive seen are not fully enclosed and allow hot air in or you cant use the pod brace to make sure the pod doesnt move. havent seen any around yet.

What a coincidence! I've recently started making a fabbing a FULLY SEALED airbox for my R33. Some of you may know of the gauge pods that I make, but in a lull with getting cars and designing new gauge pods over the last month I've started doing an airbox in fibreglass - that uses the factory bolts to hold the box and the pod in place. I have a front mount intercooler so this won't suit a car with the factory snorkel or factory intercooler return piping. I have a mate who wants one for his standard intercooler fitting as well and who knows - I may end up selling them if there's interest :rolleyes:

I'm moving slowly on the fabrication and have only done the main box part and no lid so it's not finished, but I have no problems in posting some pics if anybody wants. The lid will be sealed for my design but will incorprate the use of the factory snorkel for the other one.

-Alan

I'll try and get the box to reasonable fabricaiton point and upload some pics this week. As PLYNX said, it does take a very long time to get it all lined up right and fitting well.

For the benefit of bj_dove (originator of thread) and anyone else who's doing airboxes, I've been trying to think of ways to secure the lid. Anyone got any (simple & effective) ideas? I don't like the idea of using screws in fibreglass because you may eventually strip any thread you made. I thought of actually mounting magnets/latches (the ones you find on cupbaord doors) to keep the lid on.

Comments?...

I'll try and get the box to reasonable fabricaiton point and upload some pics this week. As PLYNX said, it does take a very long time to get it all lined up right and fitting well.

For the benefit of bj_dove (originator of thread) and anyone else who's doing airboxes, I've been trying to think of ways to secure the lid. Anyone got any (simple & effective) ideas? I don't like the idea of using screws in fibreglass because you may eventually strip any thread you made. I thought of actually mounting magnets/latches (the ones you find on cupbaord doors) to keep the lid on.

Comments?...

you can buy tool sets that are half fivet/half nut.

basically you press the threaded section into a hole, then you can use a normal bolt. kinda hard to describe, its a bit like a threaded eyelet.

I also started looking at my air box again after a bit of a break and was going to use small cabnet latches to hold the lid down. These are similar to the lockdown clips that the original air boxes use and are available from Bunnings. Three will suffice on my airbox as one side slips under the front gard. I was really after the speed of removal that the original latches have. also the one I have built is for the original intercooler piping.

Quick related question here:

Would there be any merit in fabbing up a fibreglass snorkel to replace the stock one while using the stock airbox?

Basically to get a ram intake effect?

Just noticed that the stock one has airflow dividers and looks like it might be a bit convoluted in terms of flow, thought it might be possible that a custom one with a bigger opening perhaps extending a little lower down into the frontal airflow could be beneficial?

Would there be any merit in fabbing up a fibreglass snorkel to replace the stock one while using the stock airbox?

Basically to get a ram intake effect?

Just noticed that the stock one has airflow dividers and looks like it might be a bit convoluted in terms of flow, thought it might be possible that a custom one with a bigger opening perhaps extending a little lower down into the frontal airflow could be beneficial?

For the flow through factory snorkel - I agree that the factory snorkel is not exactly the best internal design especially with the hump in it that goes over the intercooler return pipe. This could certainly be improved to become a "big mouth" design to catch more frontal airflow and smoother internal flow to the stock air box.

As for getting the air into the snorkel, of course the bigger opening in the snorkel the better but with the factory snorkel, the only thing that will really help flow INTO the snorkel would one of Bass Junkys air guides (also in the Fabrication section). These are very well made and a great item btw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...