Jump to content
SAU Community

What Garrett Turbo Would My Hybrid Highflow Be Compared With?

NYTSKY

By NYTSKY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
so did you have a whole core and wheels purchased?? then the housings machined or was the turbo built from parts??

I gave them a RB turbo and they had the VG30 out of a Nissan Cima.They chucked the cartridge and wheels and bought a Garrett cartridge with the wheels and shaft balanced and assembled in it.Then both the RB and 0P6 housings were machined to suit.Turbo charger was then assembled.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

how did you come to that conclusion??

The numbers provided have no reference to the actual wheels being used in the turbo only the core.

Unless they purchased an entire core with matching wheels it wont be a 3076.

I dont think the Op6 housing will actually take that size exhaust wheel come to think of it.

Without removing the housings and measuring it up and working out the trims or talking to the builders its not possible to reference any numbers besides the core numbers.

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm not going to argue the toss.

He said it was NEW cartridge, and supplied the CHRA number off the ID tag. No suggestion of interference or modification, just a new cartridge installed between Nissan housings.

That -0017 tag equates to a 52T T04S compressor mated with an 84T 60mm turbine. That data comes off a spreadsheet sourced directly from Honeywell. Unless there was some big quality control problem, it's unlikely that Garrett got it wrong.

Given the tag number, that's what I would say is in there.

HOWEVER, those who disagree, can. At this stage all that matters is probably giving the thing a run and seeing what it does. :domokun:

Edited by Dale FZ1
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm not going to argue the toss.

He said it was NEW cartridge, and supplied the CHRA number off the ID tag. No suggestion of interference or modification, just a new cartridge installed between Nissan housings.

That -0017 tag equates to a 52T T04S compressor mated with an 84T 60mm turbine. That data comes off a spreadsheet sourced directly from Honeywell. Unless there was some big quality control problem, it's unlikely that Garrett got it wrong.

Given the tag number, that's what I would say is in there.

HOWEVER, those who disagree, can. At this stage all that matters is probably giving the thing a run and seeing what it does. :P

Once again Dale you are a wealth of turbo knowledge.Im off to Tassie tomorrow but will be getting the turbo fitted not long after i get back,cant wait. :domokun:

Oh and to my original question what would the turbo be compared with then??

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have no claims to fame, but here's a couple of suggestions:

1. The OE comp housing may strangle the potential flow capacity of the impeller. Physical size difference between this and the .70 A/R housing Garrett normally mounts up to that impeller suggests that the mass-air flow will be reduced. By how much is a guess but that side should (guessing) be able to support 240-250rwkW - maybe slightly more. I'd reckon with a .70, the compressor would be good for 280-290.

2. The OE turbine housing normally mates up to a MUCH smaller rotor. This one MAY present an excessive restriction at higher flows, leading to tuning issues to control knock if you wanted to run big boost. Still, if it was machined correctly and profiled to match up to the rotor, it may be quite ok. I'd guess this one is also likely to run out somewhere around the 240-250kW mark.

Overall? A bit slow to come on, pretty big mid range hit but top end petering out by comparison. Again, a guess only.

Keep us informed how it goes.

EDIT: I don't think it would be directly comparable to any off the shelf item, given the specs (and assuming they are correct of course).

EDIT 2: While you have the turbo off the manifold, get someone to drill and tap a suitable location near the collector to take a nipple/bung. With VERY LITTLE mucking around you could run a temporary pressure gauge and monitor what sort of backpressure this turbine actually created. You may have seen some other discussion that focused on that issue at length. On consideration, that is what I will be doing if I remove my turbo again. Low cost, and better understanding of what is going on. :domokun:

Edited by Dale FZ1
Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
Posted

Adrian

Do you think this is similar to what I have in my R33 (i was the one that sold you the injectors).

I have still been to busy to get the actual specs on the turbo I got. All i know is that it runs nicely and I dont get any boost spiking.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi Trooper , its been a while hasn't it .

I tracked down your mate at Chippingnorton and he did did tell me the cartridge number in yours but thats about a thousand bits of paper ago . I remember he said they pressed a collar into your exhaust housing and machined it to suit the turbine which is a novel way to go about it .

The details escape me but at the time I thought it was not the way I'd go about it - something about the turbine being a little small for the compressor but its hard to be sure .

Those injectors are still in their boxes and will stay that way untill I get my hands on a Datalogit .

Cheers A .

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
Posted
Hi Trooper , its been a while hasn't it .

I tracked down your mate at Chippingnorton and he did did tell me the cartridge number in yours but thats about a thousand bits of paper ago . I remember he said they pressed a collar into your exhaust housing and machined it to suit the turbine which is a novel way to go about it .

The details escape me but at the time I thought it was not the way I'd go about it - something about the turbine being a little small for the compressor but its hard to be sure .

Those injectors are still in their boxes and will stay that way untill I get my hands on a Datalogit .

Cheers A .

G'day Adrian

I think soon all the specs will be 'lost' no one will remember what was put in - I dont really mind what is in there, as long as it works, its more responsive than the stock one and very streetable which is what I was after, still a shame they are not going ahead with the project.

I fried my PFC so just got that repaired at access :)

I am starting to get misfire problems, hoping its just a matter of gapping the plugs down.

Ready to upgrade injectors I think (again), I really want to change them but my tuner doesnt and he is the one with the knowledge. Making 260rwkw on stock injectors, stock FPR etc on 1.1 bar

Not sure what to change next. Injectors, Cams, Splitfires come to mind - but I just spent a lot of time having things tuned for economy so I dont really want to touch things for a while.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Turn signal wiring question

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...