Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Pretty much im running these mods on my r32 gtst:

high flowed turbo

full hks xuast

pod

and boosts up to around 11psi.

just feel like its down on power and could have more potential.

Not looking at spending too much for a tune, but something decent.

Anywhere around south east qld / gold coast would be great.

Cheers

Tone

it is worth remapping the standard ECU if your not going to do any more mods... so i'd suggest getting a front mount before you got it remapped, cause otherwise later down the track u'll need to remap it again.

a SAFC is a piggy back computer that modifies the reported voltage from the air flow meter. its good for some tweaking, but if you want to take full advantage of that high flow, either an aftermarket ecu or a remap is in order.

yeah would have the standard ECU.

Is it not worth while remapping the standard computer or ?

whats safc?

in that case, Mercury Motorsport and DrDrift are the only 2 i know of who have the facilities to remap the stock ecu.

yes, if you increase the boost it changes the tune. do you have a boost controller at the moment ? if not, i would get an EBC and give mercury a call. they'll set whatever boost you want and remap to suit. Also, if your gonna be putting out more power, make sure your fuel pump is up to scratch.

fyi i think a remap comes in at about $500

as the others have said the safc is a piggy back computer, it wont give you the same tune a a remap, however i dont think the total would cost as much, in saying that if you have the $$$ get the ecu re-mapped it is worth the extra dollars in the end

stuff it if ur gonna run 12psi on the standard sucker ull be fine with the nissan ECU relearning itself and save ur money and buy a full ecu eg pfc.

but if ur doin massive increases eg new turbo injects afm NOS (lol) then u should check afr and tune accordingly.

go see the guys at 101 motor cafe. From my experience there are alot of bad tuners out there and i wouldnt recommend anywhere else

Edited by r_speedfreak_r

just trying to get an idea of things,

hopefully will be slotting in a new turbo/z32/injectors/pump in the next few weeks what would you expect to pay for someone decent to tune the car, it already got the usuals and powerfc

i know matt spry is awesome from the word of mouth but seemed quite expensive ($500 to do a tidy up tune on the car as it is[tuned by APC previously])

or is that the sort of price all tuners charge

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...