Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i posted this topic here because i wanted a few quick responses

just got new speakers and now i cant get the friggin old speakers out (rear)

there doesnt seem to be any screws on it?

i have no idea?

i tried the search button but as usual, its comming up with 5 billion unrelated threads

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169966-r33-s2-speaker-removal/
Share on other sites

assume ur talking about the rear speakers?

if you want to do it properly without breaking anything then it goes from memory

1. take out rear seats

- take the part where u sit ur ass on out first (2 bolts and clips)

- take out the other part (2 bolts and clips)

2. take off door cards, all clips, just pull em out gently/firmly

3. take off the handles above your head which you hang onto when cornerring (2 screws under the small cover things on either side

4. this now gives u access to the rear parcel shelf, cant remmeber there maybe a couple screws from underneath. should slide right out.

If u dont take the plastic pillars out theres a small slit in the parcel sheve that it sits in and u risk snaping the pillars if u dont take them out.

should be pretty straight forward froom here

:P

i had a crack at mine with the exact same method as above but found out my child restraint is welded in a way that stops me from removing the whole parcel shelf. i was thinking of grinding it off but might need it for not getting defected. its soo annoying. arrrh.

yeah it doesnt take that long if you know what your doing.

I have had trouble removing the rear seats, the clip is jammed on the part you sit on...is there a special way of undoing it? Thought i might ask before getting out the crowbar.

Use muscles... its clipped in good...

I only remove the rear seats when getting my speakers out.. stuff removing that other crap... never needed to and never broken anything

Did my rear speakers removed back seat as described above. A screwdriver or some other lever helps with the lower part of the seat, just lever next/through the clips. I didn't remove my pillar trims etc, was just bloody carefull when i removed the parcel shelf.

Took 10mins max.

P.S. Standard speakers were 6" round speakers, 6x9s might be a problem the parcel shelf is not flat you may need to mod your spacers.

Good luck.

sweet i got the back seats out,

it scared the shit out of me when it came loose!

i have those child restraint things too i hope i can still get them out

if all fails then il just take it to garys car radio, cbf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
    • To be fair - you see the same thing for every clutch. There's always someone making an installation error.
×
×
  • Create New...