Brake Pads Users Ratings Guide

[Snowman]

Dunno how I missed this thead til now.

Snowy, what's the reasoning behind DS3000 front and DS2500 rear?

I have used:

It is to help compensate for my inability to drive propperly.

I have a lot of problems with trail braking and we have a couple of good stops down here where I have a habbit of looping the car around (Turn 1 Sandown for example). I used to have the problem heaps with the factory standard brake set-up but then it went totally away when I upgraded the front calipers only. (375mm rotors with AP 6 pots). Since upgrading the rears I have the problem back again so I'm trying to run a reduced friction pad in the rear to keep the cars balance. It's not working real good just yet so I might need to work on my skills rather than masking the problem.

[gslrallysport]

Queensland Friction Materials (QFM) A1.RM (front+rear)

Good compromise pad for those on a budget. Good street feel from cold. Good performance on the track with only a slight fade on lap 5. Kind to rotors, low on dust, and cheap, ~$120 per pair (about 1/3 the price I paid for Endless).

Another thumbs up for the QFM A1RM!!! These pads for the money are fantastic! Good for 780 degrees, and as was said, unlike most race pads, are very kind to rotors and low on dust!

QFM also make pads above the A1RM (its not their top pad, but just the start of their race range), and they're still only around the $200 mark, for something that in other brands would set you back well over $500... But at $110 delivered for the A1RM's unless you've got big bucks and big HP you can't go wrong!

Also too another option on racing brake fluid is the Lucas RBF600, which unlike the Motul and others is backwards compatible with the lowe grades of Dot. Meaning if you get stuck having to fill up with normal fluid it isn't a problem, whereas with the Motul you either have to keep using it, or flush it out...

Lucas RBF600 Fluid

[Black_Widow34]

'Backwards compatibe'??? If you top up your DOT 5.1 with DOT 3/4 you are defeating the whole point of using 5.1. When you mix 5.1 with other fluid you are brining the boiling point down and making it more water absorbent, which brings the boiling point even lower. You might as well save your money and just use DOT 4 if you are not going to top up 5.1 with 5.1.

As for the pads I have Endless SSY front and back. Very good street pad although often noisy at low speeds. No fade on twists either. It was ok at Oran Park but started to feel fade after several quick laps. Once you done a cool down laps or two it was fine. I think the fade was mainly due to me having stock rotors and lines (fluid was 5.1). From memory I got them for about $320 front and $280 rear of some internet shop in Melbourne (on special). In my opinion they are overpriced. The dusting is average (cleaner than Bendix Ultimates).

Someone asked before about R32 GTR pads. They are exactly the same as R34 GTT (front and rear) as my friend got the same pads as me for his R32 GTR. The V Spec ones are larger to fit the Brembos.

Edited June 25, 2007 by Black_Widow34

[gslrallysport]

'Backwards compatibe'??? If you top up your DOT 5.1 with DOT 3/4 you are defeating the whole point of using 5.1. When you mix 5.1 with other fluid you are brining the boiling point down and making it more water absorbent, which brings the boiling point even lower. You might as well save your money and just use DOT 4 if you are not going to top up 5.1 with 5.1.

Who said anything about cheap 5.1??? Talking about RBF600s here... You're at a race meet, you've unexpectively had to bleed brakes/replace lines/change pads and you haven't got a bottle of your [insert favourite non-compatible race fluid here], then at least you can top up with normal dot 4,5.1 and continue on without any side affects...

[Abo Bob]

As for the pads I have Endless SSY front and back. Very good street pad although often noisy at low speeds. No fade on twists either. It was ok at Oran Park but started to feel fade after several quick laps. Once you done a cool down laps or two it was fine. I think the fade was mainly due to me having stock rotors and lines (fluid was 5.1). From memory I got them for about $320 front and $280 rear of some internet shop in Melbourne (on special). In my opinion they are overpriced. The dusting is average (cleaner than Bendix Ultimates).

Someone asked before about R32 GTR pads. They are exactly the same as R34 GTT (front and rear) as my friend got the same pads as me for his R32 GTR. The V Spec ones are larger to fit the Brembos.

I have done hundreds of laps with stock rotors (then DBA4000's once they were dead) and stock lines and I've never noticed any fade. I don't think those Endless pads can be much chop then.

[ike]

what are people's thoughts on the endless sss or ssm pads? looking to get these sometime soon. 90% street work, the rest on twisties or track.

Have not used them on the track yet but the SSS pads work realy well for me on all the twisties around my neck of the woods.

Bit dusty but not that bad.

[Black_Widow34]

Who said anything about cheap 5.1??? Talking about RBF600s here... You're at a race meet, you've unexpectively had to bleed brakes/replace lines/change pads and you haven't got a bottle of your [insert favourite non-compatible race fluid here], then at least you can top up with normal dot 4,5.1 and continue on without any side affects...

OK I see what you are getting at. Sorry I misunderstood you comment.

BTW there will be the side affect of the boiling point being lower due to you introducing a fluid with a lower boiling point eg. DOT4.

I have done hundreds of laps with stock rotors (then DBA4000's once they were dead) and stock lines and I've never noticed any fade. I don't think those Endless pads can be much chop then.

Well I guess theose pads are not designed for track. There are other Endless pads for track use but they are even more expensive. So piss Endless of and next pad change I will try QFM A1RM or Ferrodo DS2500/3000

[T04GTR]

sbc ceramic carbon. awsome street/track pad. long lasting and dont overheat the disc. my pic for steet/track

Dave, where can you get these from, how much will they set us back? For a track gts-t, what would people recommend?

there is a few diferant compounds, but the 01 compound is the most common for fronts. or ebay lol. i dont want to pay the 385 usd for a fron set hehe

"

PFC Performance Friction

Compound Description and Characteristics

95: Ramping torque curve with relation to temperature, Good release,

and good modulation.

99: Higher Initial bite than 95 (cold bite) ramping torque curve

similar to 95, Good release and modulation.

01: Higher Initial than 99, Flat torque curve (no rise in torque due

to temperature), Better release than 99 and 95 and better modulation due to

the fact that temperature does not affect torque. This is one of the newest generation and the most advanced race compounds in the PFC range. Slightly higher bite and torque for the first 2/3’s of the stop when compared to 93 and 95 compound. At the end of the stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent release and a flatter torque curve. Very easy on the discs with very low wear. Can be used both on Stainless and iron discs.

[BBGTR]

I had Ferodo DS3000's on my front 6 pot CSC's (BMAX now ) first up. I agree with Snowy, when you give them a hard stab they bight really hard. It's almost like flipping a light switch in terms of braking effort - didn't like that much.

I am now using Pagid Black's (RS14) on the front and find them to be excellent and last nearly twice as long as the DS3000's. I got them from Barrie Smith Motorsport in Canberra - great to deal with.

I have always used Hawk HPS on the rear brakes as they are a perfect balance for the front track only compounds.

I run 355mm rotors on the front and 343mm rotors on the rear on a stock weight R32 GT-R.

Cheers

Andrew

[Smurf]

Ello ello,

Originally I had the standard pads. In addition the discs were glazed. Lets put it this way, I couldn't even get the wheels to lock up, and no I don't have ABS.

I then changed the fronts to Bendix Ultimate and had the discs sanded. Left the rears as is. No problems round town and some good bite when required. They are noisy under light breaking and leave a heap of dust on the wheels.

I am looking at getting my rears replaced in the next week. Was advised to replace rears with Bendix ultimate at $140 for the pads and $88 for labour. I would prefer a pad that does not squeal however do not wish to pay much more. is it ok to use another brand on the rear and what would you recommend for a similar price?

Thanks

[skyla]

Don't know if any of you guys have used mintex, I've been using mintex 1166 for the past 3 years and can't speak highly enough of them. I have never experienced brake fade on any of the trackdays I have gone to, they are a bit harder on rotors, are noisy and a bit dusty, but the stopping power is awesome once they get a little heat into them, the only problem is they are a bit on expensive side, cost me $300 to get a set custom made for my R33 GTS25.

Another brand I have been quite impressed with is "Hawk", I fitted Hawk hp plus to our R32 GTS-T and they bite like crazy from cold. They seem to be a fairly good pad for road use and circuit, once again harder on rotors and noiser than standard pads, cost is getting up there at $230 for a set of front pads

[260DET]

Ello ello,

Originally I had the standard pads. In addition the discs were glazed. Lets put it this way, I couldn't even get the wheels to lock up, and no I don't have ABS.

I then changed the fronts to Bendix Ultimate and had the discs sanded. Left the rears as is. No problems round town and some good bite when required. They are noisy under light breaking and leave a heap of dust on the wheels.

I am looking at getting my rears replaced in the next week. Was advised to replace rears with Bendix ultimate at $140 for the pads and $88 for labour. I would prefer a pad that does not squeal however do not wish to pay much more. is it ok to use another brand on the rear and what would you recommend for a similar price?

Thanks

Prices quoted are a bit high but Ultimates are the all round best bang for buck, unless you are going racing.

[260DET]

there is a few diferant compounds, but the 01 compound is the most common for fronts. or ebay lol. i dont want to pay the 385 usd for a fron set hehe

"

PFC Performance Friction

Compound Description and Characteristics

95: Ramping torque curve with relation to temperature, Good release,

and good modulation.

99: Higher Initial bite than 95 (cold bite) ramping torque curve

similar to 95, Good release and modulation.

01: Higher Initial than 99, Flat torque curve (no rise in torque due

to temperature), Better release than 99 and 95 and better modulation due to

the fact that temperature does not affect torque. This is one of the newest generation and the most advanced race compounds in the PFC range. Slightly higher bite and torque for the first 2/3’s of the stop when compared to 93 and 95 compound. At the end of the stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent release and a flatter torque curve. Very easy on the discs with very low wear. Can be used both on Stainless and iron discs.

I don't follow , your point is?

[Sydneykid]

Last weekend at Wakefield we ran the R33GTST with the standard calipers, UAS caliper extension brackets, Bendix Ultimates, 34 mm DBA 5000 series rotors, Nismo braided lines and my usual Castrol Super Response brake fluid. After each 15 minutes session, I stopped, SOSK jumped in and did his 15 minute session. Never had a brake problem all day, worked perfectly on the way home and since.

The only issue was I haven't upgraded the rears yet, still compliance rotors and who knows what pads with standard (rubber) brake hoses, so it was heavily front brake biased.

Regardless, the brakes were easily able to out stop the tyres, even after consecutive sessions we could lock up the brakes on demand. And that's using Yokohama A048R's, so unless we go to slicks I don't see a brake problem.

On the race cars we have always used Hawk pads, plenty of choice of compound and not expensive if purchased direct from the US.

cheers

PS; maybe you guys you should spend the money on increasing the cornering speed, that way you wouldn't have to spend so much on brakes

[T04GTR]

I don't follow , your point is?

there good. if you dont mind paying for them. race team know about brake pads.

but they are only available widly in "competition" pad shapes

[sav man]

We used Hawk HT10's in Targa, I thought they were great. Still had all my bakes at the bottom of Cethana. And they worked from cold pretty well. Pretty sure we still have just under 1/2 left to go on them (not 100% usre though)

They scream like a whore when cold, but they are race pads so who cares.

[260DET]

Last weekend at Wakefield we ran the R33GTST with the standard calipers, UAS caliper extension brackets, Bendix Ultimates, 34 mm DBA 5000 series rotors, Nismo braided lines and my usual Castrol Super Response brake fluid. After each 15 minutes session, I stopped, SOSK jumped in and did his 15 minute session. Never had a brake problem all day, worked perfectly on the way home and since.

The only issue was I haven't upgraded the rears yet, still compliance rotors and who knows what pads with standard (rubber) brake hoses, so it was heavily front brake biased.

Regardless, the brakes were easily able to out stop the tyres, even after consecutive sessions we could lock up the brakes on demand. And that's using Yokohama A048R's, so unless we go to slicks I don't see a brake problem.

On the race cars we have always used Hawk pads, plenty of choice of compound and not expensive if purchased direct from the US.

cheers

PS; maybe you guys you should spend the money on increasing the cornering speed, that way you wouldn't have to spend so much on brakes

Interesting, most people criticise Ultimates but I've found them fine for doing sprints at QR. Rotors wore a bit though, maybe that would happen with any pad, I don't know.

[Duncan]

Maybe the people criticising ultimates are trying to justify to themselves why they spent 5 times as much on their pads For light track use they are excellent together with good fluid and tyres. I ran them for years on my gtst for track days

[Abo Bob]

I think most people agree tat they are good for the money. I don't think I got more than 2 track days out of them before they needed replacing and the rotors needed machining.

Still, the DS2500's seem to crack rotors. I am wondering if the fact that my engine is cooled so well now lulls me into thinking of that as my overall temperature guide. Has anyone heard of in car brake temp gauges?

[Waldo]

I went to QR the other month, have stock 32 brakes with bendix ultimate pads, worked the shit outta the brakes, after 6 laps my pads were smoking and all whitish, i had no pedal left (was running new Castrol Super Response). Once i got home (with no brakes left) i pulled my pads out and ground them down on the concrete driveway to get the burnt layer off. Bled every caliper with new fluid...took it for a drive and still have no brakes...i think either the complete pad is just stuffed or i managed to pop some diaphrams in the brake booster?