Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I previously supplied an SAU member in WA and he was very happy with those redstuff... Too bad I myself only ever tried greenstuff, never tried red. Probably I can try chuck in some red on my wife's RAV4 but a RAV4 won't be driven hard so there's not really much advantage to it...

Edit: found it, I think his user is NO_RSPECT.

thanx mate.... so far everyone ive spoken to has reccomended green or red stuff.. so guess its red stuff for me, as on the EBC website they say "For heavier faster cars and vehicles above 200bhp we strongly recommend Redstuff which DOES offer much less dust" no point me chasing green

how much should i expect to pay for red stuff?

:rofl:

Edited by Malz34

If anyone wants to know, thought i might share some info......

EBC Red Stuff price for R34 GT-T

Brembo 4 pot Calipers - $240 Front

Standard Calipers - $220 Front

and about $200 on ebay but doesnt specify which type

:)

TRW Lucas by a long shot!

:rolleyes:

Have to agree with going the TRW Lucas pads. Just had a set installed all round with new DBA 4000 series slotted rotors up front and street series slotted for the rear while also putting in Motul DOT 5.1 fluid. I was a bit skeptical at first but the stopping power for the street is far more than adequate (possibly overkill) and thats even with my Nankangs and no ABS.. I personally don't know how well they go on the track or sprints but was assured they would hold up.

perhaps a simple table should be done.

Makes Type of Cars Price Usage (street/Track) Part Number Dust Level Quality Squeking Grips Harshness on rotors ETC

First choice would be the best " Bang for your buck" and second and so forth. So this thread will be the "ulitmate" reference for SAU.

Edited by stasis
  • 2 weeks later...

I run slotted discs, RBF600 fluid and DS2500 in my FC RX7. Have only done one track day with this setup but really liked it, highly recommend the DS2500 :down: . Previously I had Bendix ultimates these handled track reasonably well I thought but pedal start to get really long towards end of session - this could have been a combination of unknown, god knows how old fluid and shitty discs though :thumbsup:

Edited by crazyboosta
Anyone tried Project Mu type NR pads? Im going to give thim a go matched with Project Mu SCR rotors.

My brother used project mu pads on his RX8. They're good pads for the circuit but heaps and heaps of brake dust. He's only had them on not even 1000km and his rims are all black...

  • 2 weeks later...

Just curious anyone used the

SEI - Brake pads Type Street Spec

Features

- Designed for Street sports driving

- Carbon Metal (Asbestos free) construction

- Rotor Temperature of 0-500 degrees Celsius

- Fiction coefficient of 0.40-0.60

And how would you rate them for between 250 and 300 rwkws for a r33 gtst. im up for a set soon and for 284 a set (front and rear) delivered im tempted and yes main use would be medium to hard street with occasional mountain work.

Cheers

A

oh and sk. yes its got all the turning corners stuff that murry coote and terry Bosnjak can offer. our test driver scott flemming was very impressed. "you can just stand on them and modulate the pedal so easily without locking up"

so yeah our test day was ok. but il have to bill my boss for using my spare pads <_<

at wakie in my whale 182rwkw.hot summer day in january.

rotors: stock.*painted red stock callipers brakes heaps harder :blink: *

pads_front:rb74 rear:bendix advance

Fluid: castrol super response.

the braking was spongy.but they were allways there for me when i needed them.though it felt as though they were going to give up and i would go shooting off the end of the track when i was really pushing them.the pedal start to get really long towards end of every session (fadeing).definantly needs a cooling mod to the rotor veins.all in all though they never let me down by complete failure it was just a matter of finding the right time to brake so the car could be pulled up in time to make the corner.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

i have advance on the front of the car atm,ditto rear,on the street and have used them at drifting days and texikhana.and they seem to be ok.though i would like them to start working there majic a bit earlier and with allot more bite sometimes.i dont really have a complaint.i wouldnt use them for a hard day at the track. :blink:

with more power though i would seriously consider a decent brake upgrade.calliper and rotor setup,before i hit the track.

  • 3 weeks later...

Adding my 2 cents to this thread...

Was running Ferodo Excels - rubbish brake pad, you might as well run none at all!

New Brake Pads are Bendix Ultimates, wow what a difference, would definately reccomend them, Not overly expensive either

FYI was running same brake fluid on both pads, Castrol .4

Using the DS2500's from Ferodo and have to say they are a GREAT pad. Got a track day coming up on Monday so hopefully they will shine on the track as well. From what I've heard, it won't be a problem :spank:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are fine with China turbos, Maxpeedingrods makes a bolt on turbo. Ive had mine for two summers now and it seems to be holding up ok. 
    • Howdy all Im in a little predicament and wondering what everyone’s thoughts are? I’ve had my long block rebuilt and am in the market for a turbo due to my old one having metal shavings from crank bearings (cause of rebuild) go throughout the turbos oil lines and there wheel has a little play. I’m not really aiming for any power, just trying to keep it as oem as possible, but I can’t find a turbo that’s built for the stock ecu or find something that would be a standard replacement. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions 
    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
×
×
  • Create New...