Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Didn't really have a budget, just want really good brakes!

So with the DBA 4000 rotors, Project Mu Club Racer and maybe the Motul RBF600?

Would that be a good combination for both track and street?

Do the Club Racers squeel on the street? Dust etc?

So with the DBA 4000 rotors, Project Mu Club Racer and maybe the Motul RBF600?

That combination alone takes you into fairly high end track pads. Is your car a daily driver, or just a weekend car with a little street driving?

Also, instead of the Motul, we actually stock the TRW GP600 Dot 4 Racing Brake Fluid, exactly the same as the Motul(both rated to 312 degrees), but generally cheaper as it comes in a 1L bottle for $59, rather than having to buy 2 x 500mL in the Motul.

Would that be a good combination for both track and street?

Yep, and that's exactly the same combination as I run in the rally car, which in a typical event, we do roughly the same number of k's in competition as we do liason on public roads between stages. The Club Racers will work from dead cold, and until you get them hot (at which point they're phenomenal), you wouldn't know they're not an ordinary street pad.

do the Club Racers squeel on the street? Dust etc?

In theory no, but cars with opposed pistons calipers are always susceptible to noise.

also, how hard on the disc is the Project Mu Club Racer?

When being used in competition, not very. We used the same 4000 series rotors for a season and a half, and they still had good thickness left. If it's being used as street pad only, it'll go through rotors fairly quickly.

Any other questions just let me know!

Regards,

Greg

Hey guys and girls.

Just wanted to give some initial feedback to my bendix street, race, track pads.

Put them on with some dba 4000 rotors, and they seem ok.

Good initial bite when cold(after a bed in period).

But so far seem very dusty.

Could be the slotted rotors, but I now have a nice brownish/red layer of dust on my front wheel.

Tears are running firehawk(i know I know) and don't seem anywhere near as dusty.

I am getting squeal from either front or rear.

Schamffered all pads, went away for a while.

Might have to do it again.

Ok, that's my little rant, will keep updating as I start to use them more after my engine rebuild.

Currently have A1RM but need to replace, street and supersprints, need to work from cold and do at least 3 fastish laps at the track at a time,what do you recommend, also PM price for both to 2173 please.

Thanks, Mark.

Just some quick feedback on project mu B-spec pads,

I matched them up with project mu scr pro rotors, braided lines and RBF600 fluid (yea I went all out) all on a R33 GTR

Pads are great from cold with good initial bite and great feeling through the pedal, they don't squeal which is good as my car is a daily

Pushing them inspires more confidence through the pedal which is fantastic and have now realised the tyres are now the weak point, only had one "spirited" drive with this set up as the engine has developed a knock but will update once all complete

But so far worth the money

  • 2 months later...

Trying out the Intima SR's front and rear. have to say they seem pretty damn good. certainly grip well, zero noise, bugger all dust. far better than bendix which i have used in the past. good price too at around $120 a set.

  • 3 weeks later...

Just to add my real world experience to this thread.

I have been supersprinting various cars for 20 years and now have a modified HR31 with a RB25DET (soon to be RB30/25) and 200 RWKw that I take to track days, superpsrints and hillclimbs. I run 330 mm HSV Group A rotors and Harrop race calipers front with QFM A1.RM pads and R32 GTR twin-pot calipers rear with QFM HPX pads using Castrol or Nulon Super DOT4 fluid. I also have a set of DS3000 fronts that I use on special 'very competitive' occasions!

The A1.RM's are the best value for money - they work right away from cold thru to 780C (no one gets to that temp on a road reg'd car), wear incredibly well (a set will do me a whole year or more, all for $100) and they have plenty of bite with little rotor wear. The DS3000's are a bit better but no good cold and really chew into the rotors. They cost 3 times as much buit the best if you want to shead that extra 1/2 sec at Wakey!

The Super DOT4 fluid works extremely well and I never experience fade even after 7 or 8 hard laps.

You do not need to spend big $ to get good braking performace with constant change of rotors as some I know experience.

Just my 2 cents worth.

  • 2 months later...

What Hawk Brake pads would you guys recommend for a track day car? The car only sees the track, but only for track days, not long sessions either.

Is the DTC-60 overkill? What about the HT-10?

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Good question - as after I gave up on the A1RM's due to squealing (see above) I went to the bendix heavy duty. They don't squeal, but aren't as good at braking as the a1m were...

Makes me pine a bit for the OEM pads too, which I quite liked - so if you get a price post it!

Ian

I posted that in june 2009 - after I had given up on the A1RM's - don't buy them if you can't stand extreme noise! - and had swapped to the bendix heavy duty. A week or so ago they wore out, so I got almost 3 years of driving around town with them on which isn't any where near as good as the original ones.

Needed another pad in a hurry, so put the a1m in that where sitting in the shelf. Lasted in 3 days as I'd forgotten how bad they were for noise! I even tried the anti noise spray etc etc, before giving up on them yet again...

While I was down at repco buying something else, I mentioned I was looking at some new pads and the guy said they do repco branded ones for the skyline now, which are super quite with integrated shims. Given I was buying a few other things he did them for $70 (for the front two pairs) so I thought, what the heck, worth trying.

I've been pleasantly surprised - dead quite, reasonably good feel - but remember I'm not doing track (or anything like it!) I'm just driving around town... If you want a straight replacement when the standard ones where out, I don't think it is a bad choice...

Ian

ps PM me if you want a pair of not very used front A1RM's for a r34 gtt for a cheap price, as they are never going in again... :-)

Edited by ian

Give you $40 for the set.

If you installed the A1RM on rotors that had previously had another material on them (ie. not replaced or machined) then I'm not surprised they were noisy.

If you weren't after a performance pad (ala, Repco brand and Bendix Heavy duty) then why did you run the A1RM in the first place? They're a club motorsport pad, not a daily driver pad. If you wanted quiet and high end street, then I would go something like Remsa or HPX.

Saying "I ran 'x' track pad and replaced them 'y' and 'z' street pad and they were quieter" is hardly comparing apples with apples, let alone make any sense...

What Hawk Brake pads would you guys recommend for a track day car? The car only sees the track, but only for track days, not long sessions either.

Is the DTC-60 overkill? What about the HT-10?

Cheers

Hey mate, I am running DTC-60 front and HT-10 rear as you cant get the DTCs for the rear (last i checked). For a track only car this combination works, it is slightly overkill and you will probably need some time to get used to how aggressive they are ie initial bite is very strong.

What tyres are you going to run on the track? If if you are not used to braking on the track and are not using R compound or slicks then I would recommend against these pads.

If you installed the A1RM on rotors that had previously had another material on them (ie. not replaced or machined) then I'm not surprised they were noisy.

They had been machined when I originally tried them..

If you weren't after a performance pad (ala, Repco brand and Bendix Heavy duty) then why did you run the A1RM in the first place? They're a club motorsport pad, not a daily driver pad. If you wanted quiet and high end street, then I would go something like Remsa or HPX.

Saying "I ran 'x' track pad and replaced them 'y' and 'z' street pad and they were quieter" is hardly comparing apples with apples, let alone make any sense...

Because Greg, back then you told me that they were fine for around the street - indeed they were what you were recommending.You would have been right too apart from the noise!

Ian

They are fine for the street, in that if you're after a pad that's capable of track work, but can still be driven to work on, they are perfect for that. If you're not using the car for track, or some seriously spirited street driving, then there's absolutely no need for them, and I apologise if I lead you in any other direction.

But my point stands, you can fairly compare a track pad to 2 mediocre street pads (at best) and complain that the former wasn't suitable becaues you've covered two completely different segments of the market. Even so, very few people relative the number of people running the A1RM have any sort of nosie problem, and the majority of issues are with opposed pistons calipers, which are notorious for noise regardless of compound.

  • 3 weeks later...

any last min advice people,

Got 32 GTR front brakes, R33 GTSt Rear

Will be going full set of RESMA pads

HEL braided lines

Sin 600 fluid penrite

Stock 32GTR front rotors, Stock GTSt rear ( machined)

This is street only, Anything other i can do besided the above for some good braking power, Apart from good rubber.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...