Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads Users Ratings Guide


Recommended Posts

I'm in need of yet another set of pads for my r32 Gtr streeter / toy

Currently run project mu "club spec" pads on r34 gtt rda rotors

The pads perform well, and are reasonably behaved on the street. Obviously more rewarding once warmed up. . .

Looking for something with similar performance that might last a bit longer, these are only lasting a few trips to mallala until they get unpredictable and they break up.

Not interested in a big brake upgrade, prefer to keep having fun in my stock r32 thanks

Can anyone recommend some pads that will provide similar performance and possibly more life for a reasonable price, otherwise I'll keep throwing P'mu's at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if your talking about the RC09 Club Racer, but thats one of the finest pads i've used, and i've used a fair few... you wont get much better than that... unless you sacrifice performance...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, Club racer is what i meant, I have little complaints, just curious how they compare to some of the stuff mentioned in this thread (Hawk, QFM's, etc)

Based on your comment Funkdoc I'll just order some more mu's....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys and girls.

Just wanted to give some initial feedback to my bendix street, race, track pads.

Put them on with some dba 4000 rotors, and they seem ok.

Good initial bite when cold(after a bed in period).

But so far seem very dusty.

Could be the slotted rotors, but I now have a nice brownish/red layer of dust on my front wheel.

Tears are running firehawk(i know I know) and don't seem anywhere near as dusty.

I am getting squeal from either front or rear.

Schamffered all pads, went away for a while.

Might have to do it again.

Ok, that's my little rant, will keep updating as I start to use them more after my engine rebuild.

So should I have believed the Bendix rep when he told me that they have resolved the brake dust issue with the new SRT's ???

Also going to be using them all round with Kangaroo paw DBA4000's

Guess i will see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone tried the new Ferodo DS Uno pads on track? I had them recommended by one of the larger race brake suppliers in the country, and apparently everyone 'raves' about them.

Has anyone used them and are they worth raving about? Any feedback on durability, disc life, modulation, etc.?

Alternative is Pagid RS14 / RS29 for similar price.

Thanks

Jack

Bump

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

been using DS2500'S for around 5,000kms now, including 3 trackdays. still look brand new. no fade whatsoever and as much i can tell they are very rotor friendly.i have a spare brand new set for sale if anyones keen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

whoa....ok after 21 pages of reading , and after wiping the blood from my eyes....the general consensus for a ONLY STREET driven skyline r33 gtst that gives

- low /minimal dust wear

- good quality

- easy on rotors

- low/minimal noise

-excellent cold bite

-not much fade(not that youd worry about that type of thing for street anyway)

and the winner is......

QFM HPX?

Would everyone agree?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have Resmas myself. Have not had them long enough to get a complete view of them but I am quite impressed so far. Best thing is no noise exept maybe an cold morning/evening the very first time you brake.

Used the HPX on my wrx before with similar results, though it always ended up slightly squealing under light braking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so fitted RDA slotted rotors all round with QFM HPX pads. They stop on a dime , except when they warm up they squeal like CRAZY. To the point where its almost unbearable and embarrassing. Hardly any dust and good bite when cold , but the sheer loudness of the squeal when warm is enough for me to not purchase these pads next time....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so fitted RDA slotted rotors all round with QFM HPX pads. They stop on a dime , except when they warm up they squeal like CRAZY. To the point where its almost unbearable and embarrassing. Hardly any dust and good bite when cold , but the sheer loudness of the squeal when warm is enough for me to not purchase these pads next time....

+1. I fitted myself QFM HPX with new RDA rotors on the fronts about a year ago - no problems. Got workshop to put rears on with new rotors about 8 months ago and have had this exact problem which has gotten worse over time. It's LOUD and very annoying, going to change the rears before summer hits (does it straight away if its a hot day)

Edited by Dani Boi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1. I fitted myself QFM HPX with new RDA rotors on the fronts about a year ago - no problems. Got workshop to put rears on with new rotors about 8 months ago and have had this exact problem which has gotten worse over time. It's LOUD and very annoying, going to change the rears before summer hits (does it straight away if its a hot day)

frankly is quite annoying that I now have to hold myself back from braking hard or the unbearable squeaking starts....which defies the purpose of choosing these over stock anyway. I'm annoyed that I was told its a street pad , yet sounds extremely un streetable to me. I would of preferred that gsl rally let me know this when i purchased it as I asked for their recommendation. I asked them about the a1rm and how streetable it would be , they suggested the hpx since they are low noise :yucky: and low dust. Not happy as the problem sounds like its getting worse.

rolling to a stop at traffic lights while every person in a 5km radius turns to look at you FTL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't be so quick to throw the baby out with the bathwater... Thousands of people (literally) run the HPX with no issues, unfortunately opposed piston calipers are ALOT more succeptable to noise, and so are alot more sensitive to small things like incorect fitting (ie not lubbing the caliper pins) or incorrect bedding in (ie. getting them too hot during bed in, very common post asbestos being banned).

I would recommend this:

- Take the pads out, give them a rub on some smooth concrete to freshen them up.

- Switch the pads left to right caliper, so the rotor is turning the other direction on them.

- Follow QFM's bed in procedure:

http://qfm.com.au/userfiles/files/BEDDING-IN-PROCEDURE.pdf

I've got the HPX on my Subaru, which uses the EXACT same sumitomo caliper Skylines are fitted with and they're dead quiet.

Alternatively PMu make a shim kit but they're faily expensive, or else we can send you the universal stick on shim kits for nothing to try. They generally work pretty well.

Any questions at all feel free to give us a call, 1300 884 836.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The r34 gearbox is like $3400/3700 landed from Japan sometime last year.   Contact jessestreeter.com for info and quotes. From memory the navara gearbox needs input shaft machined down as I looked into a while back and there's a thread somewhere here from 2018-2021 about it. Depends on what your doing with the car maybe worth the dollars to go cd009 or a 8hp50/70.
    • VCAM doesn't really increase peak power, it just widens the powerband. So if you were giving up power with adjustable cam gears to get better low-end response yes in theory it "increases power" but otherwise not really. Stroker kit might put you in a more efficient region of the compressor map which will get you more power but at say 7000 rpm I'm not sure that much will change. The original HKS GT2530, -5s, and GTX2860R gen 2 are all roughly the same kind of turbo. If you want 600 horsepower those are the turbos you need. So 500 whp. Just expect to spend some quality time trying to figure out intake/exhaust piping. The "twin turbo" pipe is an obvious place to start. Make sure the actuator preload and all of that fun boring stuff is set up correctly. Throw a VCAM step 2 at it if you want good response, 2.8L stroker too. If you're not actually wedded to 500 whp all the time you can barely get there with -7s or Nismo R3 turbos, you just have to run E85 or race gas and run them hard:
    • It's used in the GT-R, GTST/GTT, and Z32 VG30 NA + TT versions. Nissan still makes them new, they're not cheap but they're not expensive either. Personally I would just get something direct-fit and be done with it but I'm not that handy at fabrication.
    • FS5R30A the nav box isn’t it? I did think about those. Any issues? I wondered if the bell housing off an rb30 patrol would work as they are the same gearbox but with a transfer I believe. 
×
×
  • Create New...