Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

A1RM are 780 degree pads these are 800 degrees. So based on my previous bad experiences with A1RM these pads are 2.6% better (based purely on the max operating temperature,  yes very biased way of looking at them).

If money isn't not an issue, Project Mu HC+. Don't get the HC800 ones sold locally here, they don't seem to behave the same as the one from Japan ie HC+.

If you're after a happy medium between outright performance and money, then the Intima SR pads fit perfectly in 2nd place.

10 hours ago, boo5td6 said:

Anyone got any recommendations for what they feel are the best pads for short time trial courses to work from slightly warm but still pull up like a boss with gr8 bite?

 

For good bite from cold.... Winmax 6.5

I use them in my GTR for hillclimbs and a bit of circuit work and they pull up beautifully.

On the circuit, comparing feel to pmu Club racers, they do change feel a bit when they get hot (a few laps in) but still pull up as well !

A mate (who is sponsored by pmu) recently jumped in the car and was amazed by their initial bite. Brake hardware is otherwise stock

  • 1 month later...
23 hours ago, Missileman said:

Anyone tried Project Mu Brake shims, and if so how well do stop squeaks?...

http://www.project-mu.co.jp/en/products/other_shim.html

I have a mate with them, said it still squeals abit after all the copper grease has dried up or flaked off... initially it shuts up the pads squealing like a wh0re lol....

  • 4 months later...

I’ve been fortunate enough to have been factory trained with a couple of friction lining manufacturers around the world. Sintered metal, carbon metallic and low metal high carbon pads. 

One thing is for sure, its personal. Every driver has a different perception of what is good braking. 

The most basic of identifiers for brake lining characteristics is the good old SAE J661 hot and normal (cold) friction coefficient test which is the codes stamped on the pad backing plate. They will look like;

EF, FF, GF, GG etc

Normal , Hot 

E = 0.25 to 0.35 mu

F = 0.35 to 0.45 mu

G = 0.45 to 0.55 mu

H = 0.55 and above 

Key metrics for measuring performance;

Torque response  (initial bite)

Peak effectiveness (peak friction @ time/temp/pressure)

Release speed (speed to fully retract)

Modulation factor (compressibility and a combo of above)

Pad wear 

A good driver will understand these metrics and will be able to adjust his methods to suit in order to achieve the desired outcome whether it be sprints, endurance, off road, etc.

I haven’t discussed the technical aspects of ducks nuts, shit hot or awesome with the companies but I am in contact weekly.

I hope this terminology helps.

 

Cheers

 

  • Like 1
16 hours ago, Hadouken said:

So what do you find good for braking?

Hi Hadouken,

I started a new thread to explain in more detail. This probably isn't the best thread in hindsight.

What's good?

I don't sell anything so I'm not pushing any cart here.

For many many years sintered metal pads dominated in hard core racing. PFC, SBS, Hawk, etc

Then came the carbon metallics. Ferodo, Endless, Pagid, Proj Mu, etc

And the carbon/aramid fibre (Kevlar?) . Carbotech, Hawk, EBC, etc   (FYI Kevlar is a registered brand name of the DuPont company. Some pad manufacturers use the Dupont material but not all).

NAO (Non Asbestos Organic) pads are becoming more popular for road use. With a ceramic base the dust and wear is low with good friction properties. Too many brands to mention but I'll name a couple. Bendix, Fed Mogal Wagner, Ferodo, most OEM's and many rebadged brands. 

Carbon metallics are generally a good place to start for Skylines. DS2500 and RS4-2 were popular. A safe option but not specifically the best for everyone.

33 minutes ago, Hadouken said:

I think you took that the wrong way.
Just wanted to know which way you swing for pads.

Seeing as this thread covers brake pad user reviews. emoji4.png

Endless MA45 for endurance

RS4-2 or DS2500 for track days

DS3000, RS14 for more serious super sprints and rally

Hawk HT10's were also very good for a high initial bite on tarmac

The above will be noisy on the road and not ideal. Shop around and don't pay too much.

Road - Hmmm, if you bed them in properly NAO's are very good. Low noise, low wear. I'm doing some work on these and carbon ceramics at the moment.

 

About to grab some new pads, I've had the Intima SS on the front of the 34 for over 2 years now  - all road use but some decent drives thrown in that got them pretty hot

They are very kind on the rotors however - bugger all wear and I've done about 35,000kms on them since installing. Full weight 34 sedan with 250odd rwkw

I want to give the Intima SR or the Forza FP3 a try - to those who've used them, are there much difference between the 2? The SS pads are good but they lack a bit of bite compared to the A1RM's I had previously - however the trade off being zero noise and little dust makes me want to get these again, or try the next step up with the SR's

I've got a set of SR's on the back at the moment, no noise and only a touch more dust than the SS pads

Will be used with a DBA slotted rotor, which have been skimmed and ready to go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...