Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have run Winmax W5's recently and they seem to hold up to a bit track work as well as slower stuff (hillclimb).[/size]

At Mallala in my GTR which is heavy on brakes they held up to 5-6 lap sprints with minimal change in feel.[/size]

The feel is different to the PMU club racer I usually run, there seems to be less initial bite, but the performance must be there (did a PB of 1:18.7 on them). Obviously the W5 is a lot cheaper than the PMU so great value for money. The W7 may be more suitable to more serious track duties.[/size]

The wear was minimal for the one track day. [/size]

I have some Winmax 6.5’s on order to try. Will run a few hillclimbs on them and maybe a track day earlier next year so it will be a while until i get feedback on them[/size]

Just to follow up.

I ran the Winmax W6.5 front & rear at "Legends of the lakes" and found them quite user friendly. Obviously being a short hillclimb event it's not heavy on brakes so can't comment on longevity, etc. but assume they will perform as good or better than the junior W5's which survived mallala

Significantly, they were very well behaved on the street. I used the car as my runabout while in Mt Gambier that weekend which was pleasant to drive around town (not too much noise and not like wood cold).

Seems like a great compromise pad between circuit, targa and even street

Grabbed some TRW Dtec pads installed on new RDA discs for the 5.

Excellent grip from cold to hot, rated to 650deg so OK for a couple of happy laps.

The Dtec is some low dust technology.

Haven't tracked with them yet but they have not missed a beat in all road conditions.

And no squealing.

My opinion;

Eats Bendix SRT alive

Better that A1RM for mixed use as they are better from cold than them, don't sqeal and have less dust (the A1RM is a higher rated pad though)

DISCLAIMER: The 5 doesn't really go fast enough for brakes anyway, LOL.

I recently used the A1RM pads all around along with new J Hook rotors off ebay. I wouldn't recommend the pads for street use, they need to be warm and they squeal on the road. On the track they are quite good, they have good bite. but after a couple of laps they will start to squeal a bit as they may get too hot. Will be using them till they're finished and then will try something new.

They are good if you are on a budget (like I always am)

Amir

Edited by Abdul11

I have to agree with nizmo. I run a1rm pads. Quiet and don't feel like they are bricks when cold. Also took them to wakefield and they stopped the car every time down the straight, thank God Haha. Will be using them again at wakey next week.

I have been through a lot of info on here but there is too many conflicting opinions.

I have 170 at the rear in my 33 and I like a bit of spirited mountain runs, don't see myself doing track days yet.

Should I get the following:

QFM HPX all around

DBA or RDA slotted rotors all around

Is there a better alternative while keeping it under $500?

Thanks

Hpx would be fine. How bad are your rotors? I'd probably leave the stock rotors instead of going to rda rotors. Just get them machined.

The previous owner didn't change them in their ownership of 3 years so the pads are a bit low and I think the rotors probably aren't that good with that being said there is no bad gouging on them at all. Would it make sense to machine the rears and get slotted or something for the front for a bit more stopping power?

Slotted rotors aren't going to give you more stopping power per say. They are designed to keep cool and disperse heat.

You don't have a lot of power and you are not intending on tracking it. Get slotted rotors if you wish. And if you want to save money just get the fronts. Nothing wrong with that.

Slotted rotors aren't going to give you more stopping power per say. They are designed to keep cool and disperse heat.

You don't have a lot of power and you are not intending on tracking it. Get slotted rotors if you wish. And if you want to save money just get the fronts. Nothing wrong with that.

I'm not overly fussed about money but I am very new to cars this big so I'm not sure what I should get. A good mate of mine (also on here somewhere) is running similar power and went for OEM pads and RDA standard rotors IIRC.

Thanks for your help!

Have a look at the specs of the TRW pads compared to the QFM ones.

Also have a look at what the TRW pads come with standard.

From my experience they are the best "street pad" I have ever used.

And they are fairly cheap if you Google around.

As for the A1RM pads squealing, I believe its due to light braking when on street duties, when mine started squealing I would "bed them in again" and they would be fine for while.

And for the street the TRW have much better initial bite.

A1RM are rated to 750 IIRC whilst the TRW are rated to 650.

And always install new rotors if you are changing pad compounds.

Have a look at the specs of the TRW pads compared to the QFM ones.

Also have a look at what the TRW pads come with standard.

From my experience they are the best "street pad" I have ever used.

And they are fairly cheap if you Google around.

As for the A1RM pads squealing, I believe its due to light braking when on street duties, when mine started squealing I would "bed them in again" and they would be fine for while.

And for the street the TRW have much better initial bite.

A1RM are rated to 750 IIRC whilst the TRW are rated to 650.

And always install new rotors if you are changing pad compounds.

Thanks MLR, is there an Aus distributor you know of around? Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...