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Brake Pads Users Ratings Guide


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BTW, I use RDA slotted and dimpled rotors, the slots and dimples give the gases that build up on the face of the pad somewhere to go, thus increasing the friction efficiency.

Or so the story goes.

Plus the price is right when you can find them on sale on fleabay for $250 a set of front and rear delivered.

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so im now tossing up between two QFM A1rm or Endless MX72. I have personally used these no noise whatsoever. They do feel slightly spongy when stopping hard but that could be due to my fluid waiting for a change or the flex on the cyclinder.

are A1RM better compared to the MX72?

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did some more research the MX72 doesnt seem like it exist anymore. So here is what ive found

FEATURES:

CC33 Compound:

Suitable for street and track. Great initial response. Superb modulation. S55G enables drivers to use high levels of pedal pressure

without wheel lock. Targeted for light to medium weight cars and circuits with low to medium top speeds. Most often used in One-Make races.

CC38 Compound:

Suitable for both street and track, ME22 was developed from the ME20 base compound. ME22 offers slightly lower friction levels than ME20 to

improve modulation. Development is focused on light to middle weight cars. -

See more at: http://www.rhdjapan.com/endless-circuit-compound-brake-pads-cc33-cc38-cc40-cc43-cc60.html#sthash.4EZ3wTTk.dpuf

leaning towards the cc38 so far. Light track work daily driven

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so im now tossing up between two QFM A1rm or Endless MX72. I have personally used these no noise whatsoever. They do feel slightly spongy when stopping hard but that could be due to my fluid waiting for a change or the flex on the cyclinder.

are A1RM better compared to the MX72?

I've used the A1RM for a few months now, good street/track pad, work well from cold and takes a lot of heat to make them fade.

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Guys, I'll join this discussion and recommend A1RM's to all.

I have a quick HR31 that I use for weekend fun and track days. Runs a 340Kw RB25 and I have been using A1RM's for 5 years now, They are the best value for money I have found. They work extremely well on the street from cold and on the track when very hot. They never fade, even after 8 hard laps of WP and are very kind to rotors (have had one set of DB4000 rotors for the last 4 years). I have them made for my Harrop 4 pot front calipers by QFM, they are a nice 20 mm thick pad and cost me $88 a set (costs no more to get them made specially irrespective of thickness). The current set I have had in the car for 18 months have done at least 6 track days and are about 1/2 worn.

I used DS3000's before these and while they bite a bit better, they cost 3-4 times more, are useless when cold, chew out rotors and wear twice as fast!

I also use Nulon Super DOT4 fluid ($10 a bottle) that I change every 6 months and never lets me down, for what its worth.

Hope that helps those trying to decide what to buy. Give them a try - its only $88 for a set of DB1170's or DB 1220's to do so if you know where to go.

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On the missus corolla not my boat...

Thought I would be less of a tight arse and put slightly better pads on her car instead of the usual adb brand I always buy for half the price.

So off I went to my local spares shop and bought a set of Bendix CT pads. Being almost double the price of adb pads you would think they are better. At the same time waited for them to machine the rotors as there was a little lip.

Went home, did the usual install and thought I would bleed the brakes too since the car has hit 100000km, fluid was still pretty good and no bubbles.

So time to bed them in, as normal start slow and work up on the speed.

Let them cool down and drove around the block for several minutes then went to test them.

They are horrific, worse than yum cha ling long pads. I can barely even stop abruptly. Same experience with my mate and his Mazda 3. Same pads, same pathetic poor braking abilities.

Looks like Bendix has gotten worse, their old Bendix General pads were great in daily use now with the release of their CT range I'm horrified.

Bendix, you've lost another customer (albeit I never use them on the skyline, boat gets Project MU only :))

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So second track day along on qfm a1rm pads. Performing great as usual. Fluid got hot but pads still stopped the car.

Interesting, what kind of track day was it?

My pads got hot before I cooked my fluid, this was on a 36km tarmac rally stage using Nulon Extreme brake fluid

Dry 280deg/Wet 183deg

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Brake_Fluids/Xtreme_Performance_Brake_Fluid_-_Super_DOT_4/#.VI4irSuUd8E

I'm sure I didn't genuinely cook the pads as they are rated to 700 degrees and rotors are supposed to glow at 500 degrees or something, but maybe it was heat soak or something else.

My pedal feel stayed good but it just wasn't pulling up

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