Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll write up a proper review on the weekend, but I just wanted to say my A1RM are still going strong.

I did a Tarmac Rally on the weekend, even on 37km stages and warm weather the pads didn't fade or get noisy, super consistent.

Big fan of them, have already ordered another set for when mine need replacing.

thought i would add my thoughts

bought intima ss around 4 years ago for my ek civic which has type r brakes

was disappointed in stopping power

after reading the reviews here, i decided to give them a go again on my accord euro

installed them a few weeks ago and still disappointed

not sure if the ones installed by members were all on nissans and they have better braking system, but it felt like it slows the car down good but definitely not as good as my skyline with gktech adaptors, 324mm discs and some random brake pads

I am now completely confused and can't make my mind up on what to get lol... don't get me wrong with stopping power and fade etc I absolutely love the Remsa pads, but as a daily being white with white wheels I'm over washing it every 2 to 3 days because of this dust, was set on intima ss but now the past few comments I don't likey haha lol.

like i said, might be just the setup

i previously liked lucas trw pads and recommended them to a mate

he put them on both his r32 gtr with stock brake setup with slotted rotors and also his mr2 with adaptor brackets to use larger discs

on the mr2 it pulled up amazing, and on the gtr not so much!

there are so many factors involved from my experiences with the 4 cars mentioned

that being said, i had project mu pads in my sprinter with stock jap brake setup and they were awesome street pad

I am now completely confused and can't make my mind up on what to get lol... don't get me wrong with stopping power and fade etc I absolutely love the Remsa pads, but as a daily being white with white wheels I'm over washing it every 2 to 3 days because of this dust, was set on intima ss but now the past few comments I don't likey haha lol.

I've had both, Intima is ok for normal street but I melted mine on a mountain run. Remsa much better stopping and ok on the track but very dusty. I also have white wheels, for a day at least.

There's not a lot of choice for high temp budget pads unfortunately.

Guys, I have been watching this thread for a long time and want to add my 2 cents worth.

I have been running A1RM pads in my HR31 Skyline for 6 years now for both track and street use. They are the best value for money you can buy. They stop every time with no fade even after 6 hard laps at WP (1.12's) and work from go on the street even on the coldest Winter's morning. They don't wear the rotors, give off minimum dust and last a long time (I get up to 8-10 track days of 30-40 laps each from a set but admittedly my pads are 16mm thick material made to fit my VL Harrop 4 pot race calipers with HSV 330x28 mm rotors). I have them made specially to fit my calipers but they still only cost $110 a set. Standard R32/R33 pads off the shelf cost $88 where I get them. You can't beat that for value.

I have used Ferrodo DS3000's ($300 a set years ago) and they ate the rotors, didn't work when cold and left mountains of dust but did bite bit better then A1RM's. Currently trying Ferrodo DS11 pads that I bought years ago and never used, which seem to be identical in performance to A1RM's but cost 3 times as much. I use the standard HR31 master cylinder and slotted DBA 4000 rotors and all works very well.

I run QFM Super X street pads on the rear with R32 GTR twin pot calipers and standard rotors, which have never been machined as no wear. Haven't had to change them in 4 years but when I do will fit A1RM ($88 a set).

Hope that helps.

  • 4 weeks later...

Can anyone help me with some pads fro my r32 Gtr. I have r33 gtr brembos, endless front rotors, braided lines.

I'm after something decent as its a weekend car but don't want noise... This is what I've been through in the space of 6months:

Endless cc-rg (incredible brake pad, ticked all the boxes but we're so noisy)

Project mu B spec (not bad at all but still very noisy even with the project my shims)

Project mu ns400 (just had these and they were ok at the beginning but are also really quite noisy)

I can't find anything that is relatively quiet. The above were all super noisy.

So over it and tempted to try and buy some standard pads.

Any suggestions with low to no noise?

Before you ask, brakes have been rebuilt with all genuine parts and been inspected since

Can anyone help me with some pads fro my r32 Gtr. I have r33 gtr brembos, endless front rotors, braided lines.

I'm after something decent as its a weekend car but don't want noise... This is what I've been through in the space of 6months:

Endless cc-rg (incredible brake pad, ticked all the boxes but we're so noisy)

Project mu B spec (not bad at all but still very noisy even with the project my shims)

Project mu ns400 (just had these and they were ok at the beginning but are also really quite noisy)

I can't find anything that is relatively quiet. The above were all super noisy.

So over it and tempted to try and buy some standard pads.

Any suggestions with low to no noise?

Before you ask, brakes have been rebuilt with all genuine parts and been inspected since

Ferodo DS2500 or DS performance is hard to beat for a crossover pad in case you have not tried them.

Can anyone help me with some pads fro my r32 Gtr. I have r33 gtr brembos, endless front rotors, braided lines.

I'm after something decent as its a weekend car but don't want noise... This is what I've been through in the space of 6months:

Endless cc-rg (incredible brake pad, ticked all the boxes but we're so noisy)

Project mu B spec (not bad at all but still very noisy even with the project my shims)

Project mu ns400 (just had these and they were ok at the beginning but are also really quite noisy)

I can't find anything that is relatively quiet. The above were all super noisy.

So over it and tempted to try and buy some standard pads.

Any suggestions with low to no noise?

Before you ask, brakes have been rebuilt with all genuine parts and been inspected since

Remsa are quiet and good performance but very dusty.

Okay.

Just saying, I've dailied my GT-R, on my second set of A1RM. It's okay on a short track.

I've had 2 sets of A1RM over 2 years, done a lot of track days, tarmac rally, hillclimb and they have been perfect for me. My car is an S14 however, a bit lighter than a GTR.

i previously liked lucas trw pads and recommended them to a mate

he put them on both his r32 gtr with stock brake setup with slotted rotors and also his mr2 with adaptor brackets to use larger discs

on the mr2 it pulled up amazing, and on the gtr not so much!

there are so many factors involved from my experiences with the 4 cars mentioned

that being said, i had project mu pads in my sprinter with stock jap brake setup and they were awesome street pad

TRW now have 2 compounds, the GDB part numbers followed numbers and the GDB part numbers followed by a DT.

The ones without the DT are the Euro made pads that were fantastic at stopping, used by both racers and street drivers but dusty, rated to 650.

The DT ones are made in Asia, ceramic based, low dust and dont stop as well (less friction coefficient) and also rated to 650.

Remsa pads come from the TRW Euro plant, in my eyes they are the good old original TRW compound.

For white wheels and low dust we always use EBC Red stuff Ceramic/kevlar, rated to 650 and gentle on rotors, they were the only pads that would keep my sons white wheels clean and what little dust he got was easy to wash off, for me it also meant i stopped going through rotors.

These days we use EBC Yellow stuff, rated to 900 degrees, a little dusty but bah, i get my rotors at cost price so ive stopped worrying about changing rotors more often......and i dont wash my car, thats what my sons for......

HPX got tired easily on the heavy GT-R. A1RM is a great heavy street pad.

Try Project Mu HC800 next time, it will blow your mind away and maybe your load too.

Those who rave about A1RM have never tried anything better. like a guy that's only owned a h0mosexual Honda Civic will say his car is the fastest thing alive.. till he or she hops into the likes of a Skyline and cream both their front side and back side openings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...