Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got sent SR instead of SS pads for the front of my Subaru, they bite very well (sometimes a bit too hard when they warm up, for smooth easy braking) and the brakes are strong. Too much for a daily driver though IMO. Not surprised they work well on the track. The A1RMs on my GT-R however, are most likely glazed over and are rubbish now (after a couple of track days/years).

I don't know why everyone raves about QFMs.. I once thought they were good too.. till I nearly DIED!

Anyhow, if anyone needs Intima Pads SS/SR/Type-D hit me up - will take care of SAU boys and their friends!

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I don't know why everyone raves about QFMs.. I once thought they were good too.. till I nearly DIED!

Anyhow, if anyone needs Intima Pads SS/SR/Type-D hit me up - will take care of SAU boys and their friends!

What do you have to fit the 8 pot ATTKD calipers for track only use?

2 hours ago, GeeDog said:

What do you have to fit the 8 pot ATTKD calipers for track only use?

I'll check with the manufacturer, because I don't have a listing for those :)

Do you know what other caliper uses the same pads (for reference)?

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

They take pads for the AP racing 6 spot calipers, common motorsport size with lots of options but I don't have a part#

awesome thanks Duncan!

I'll find drawings tomorrow for them and see if they're a goer!

On 7/21/2016 at 5:24 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'll check with the manufacturer, because I don't have a listing for those :)

Do you know what other caliper uses the same pads (for reference)?

Sorry for the late reply - as per Duncan's reply they use AP Racing pads. I don't have any part numbers either. Don't need pads just yet but no doubt we will later this year.

On 7/21/2016 at 5:43 PM, GeeDog said:

What do you have to fit the 8 pot ATTKD calipers for track only use?

I put Pagid pads from RaceBrakes in mine but sorry don't have the numbers.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/21/2016 at 3:43 PM, GeeDog said:

What do you have to fit the 8 pot ATTKD calipers for track only use?

Got details back from the supplier, unfortunately the Australian stock is just the standard Intima SR, which are 0 to 700 degrees...

but..... if there's enough demand, we can ask them to order them in the Type-D range, which are 250 ~ 850 degrees - however they're made to order.

Ok peeps, I've been running Remsa (sometimes labelled Roadhouse) pads for a while now, generally ok except very very dusty. They're rated 650C.

Thing is, I kinda killed them at Sandown last Sunday, fully glazed over after 3 sessions ( http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7763092 )

I'm now thinking of upgrading to something like Intima SR or Type D ( as per http://www.trak-life.com/intima-brake-pads-review-sr-type-d/ ) – not entirely convinced though as I had a bad experience with Intima SS back in the day; they completely melted on a mountain run.

Another option is Brakes Direct's Forza line: http://brakesdirect.com.au/forza - maybe FP3, FR4 or FR5.

I'm still after something that is somewhat streetable i.e. with a low-ish C rating at the bottom of the temp range. Any recommendations?

EDIT: Also anyone know who might be able to supply cooling duct brackets to suit the R34 front hubs, to channel air into the inside centre of the disc to feed the veins? The OEM heat shields have been cut off.

Intima SS pads are 0 to 400 degrees though, so yeah not really a good pad to use on a Mountain run..
Intima SR pads are 0 to 700 degrees.. so more suited for your street sprints, mountains, track work etc.
Intima Type-D pads are 250 to 850 degrees... a little shit on the road when cold, but they sure pull up once there's heat.

Happy to help you guys out, will throw in free shipping if you order 2x sets of pads and bank deposit instead of GheyPal.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...