Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys and Gals,

I thought I'd chuck together a thread where everyone can post up the brake pads they have used and what they thought of them. I'll try and keep a summary up in this 1st thread as a quick glance resource. I'll list the pads as people post them up under three headings as either track only pads, track/street pads or steet only pads. For the summary I'll do a simple :) next to the pad name if people like them or a :) followed by a reason if people don't like them. Also if people can list where they got the pads from that would be great too. If you want anything else added let me know.

Track Pads

EBC Green :) (poor performance and taper wear)

EBC Yellow - OK but not as good as DS3000's

Ferodo DS3000 :)smile.gifsmile.gif

Ferodo DS2500 :) (rears) :) (crumble with hard use)

Performance Friction Carbon Metallic :P

SBS Dual Carbon :)

Track/Street Pads

Bendix Ultiamtes smile.gifsmile.gif (Light track work)

EBC Green - OK But not as good as DS2500's

Endless SSS smile.gif

Ferodo DS2500 smile.gif

Queensland Friction Materials (QFM) A1.RM (front+rear) smile.gifsmile.gif

SBS Ceramic Carbon :)

Street Pads

Bendix Ultiamtes smile.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169972-brake-pads-users-ratings-guide/
Share on other sites

I'll start my own thread then :P

I currently use in my GT-R Ferodo DS3000 pads in the fronts and DS2500 in the rears. I think they are great. Can get a little noisy if I haven't done much hard driving but after one good session become quiet again rather quickly. For me I love the progressive bite - but they will bite hard given a firm press. I get mine from John @ UAS and would highly recommend them for a track set-up.

cool.

ds3000 good feel ,consistant, used on v8 brutes. the discs crack before they break up.

ds2500 pretty average not very bity. and crumble with hard use. (since 3000 came along) but once warm ok.

ebc green. garbage and extreem taperd ware.

sbc ceramic carbon. awsome street/track pad. long lasting and dont overheat the disc. my pic for steet/track

sbc duel carbon. very good aswell. more track orientated. long lasting and take an awfull lot of heat. (targa favorite)

performance friction carbon metalic.

omg insane pad. so easy to use and instant pedal responce. my pic of the list. but due to the fact that they work so well you cant tell your overheating the discs. cos they feel the same from warm to a orange hot disc. (as used in most top level motorsport. nascar,v8 supercars etc etc)

bendix ultimate,ferodo formula,metal kings etc etc. pretty crap and good for going up to the shops.

i haved used all these pads in my gtr with 355mm rotors and brembo f40's (38,44mm pistons) and im hard on brakes. once you get good brakes you seem to explore there limmits hehe

  • 2 weeks later...

I've been using factory pads so far and they are working fine, no fad. Have just brought some new Bendix Street Road Track to see if I can shortern the distance down a bit. But very impressed with factory brakes!

This topic is a good idea, pity about the lack of response.

Anyway, I've had good results when doing sprints at QR, Sprint circuit, with Bendix Ultimates. Great bang for buck but not a race pad. So thinking of EBC Yellow stuffs, which are supposed to work cold too. My big concern is rotor wear, but seeing noone uses them.............

Using RB74 front and rear pads. Stock rear dics and 4000 series (non-slotted) fronts on R33 GTSt.

Good pad, warm up in one average stop first thing in the morning, can be very noisy if you don't grease the shims properly. Definately better than Nissan pads that seem to leave material on the disc after hard driving (makes discs feel temporarily warped)

Been used around QR and seemed fine and dandy. But I've only got 170rwkw.

my 2c - some of this is second hand tho

DS3000s - high friction 0.62 so very grippy - works well at high temp - tough on rotors (maybe only at low temps tho) - manufacturer says "NOT suitable for road use", presumably because of the rotor wear issue

EBC Yellows - quite like DS3000 - similar price so you might as well use the better DS3000s

DS2500s - med friction 0.5 so not as grippy as DS3000s - dont eat rotors - good for track and street

EBC Reds - quite like DS2500s - similar price so you might as well use the better wearing DS2500s

EBC greens - med friction 0.55 - everyone says they're crap but they worked ok for me on street and light track work

You should use pads of the same friction coefficient front and rear unless you want to change the brake bias.

what are people's thoughts on the endless sss or ssm pads? looking to get these sometime soon. 90% street work, the rest on twisties or track.

Recommended...

I've been running the SSS pads for a lil while now. For what you've said you'll be using them for - low noise, low dust and still good after 4 laps of Sandown...

In my time with the 34 I used:

Endless Euro-X (front) and Endless NA-R (rear)

Great for track, no fade after 5 laps, but poor pedal feel and noisy when cold so not the best for street. These are now old parts replaced by newer Endless pads.

Bendix Heavy Duty (front)

Put in as a stop-gap measure cos my front pads were too low before a track day. These pads were crap for my application, poor pedal feel on the street, dusty, wore quickly, faded after 2 laps but didn't go away completely.

Queensland Friction Materials (QFM) A1.RM (front+rear)

Good compromise pad for those on a budget. Good street feel from cold. Good performance on the track with only a slight fade on lap 5. Kind to rotors, low on dust, and cheap, ~$120 per pair (about 1/3 the price I paid for Endless).

I should mention what really helped was also:

- decent fluid (Endless fluid or Motul Factory Line)

- decent rotors (basic upgrade to DBA/RDA slotted rotors of stock diameters)

- cooling (cutting away the guard plastic in front of the front wheels to allow airflow, removal of dust plates)

- braided lines front and rear

- master cylinder brace

- proper bleeding procedure

Im using the SSS 500 deg front and 380 deg for rear for almost 1 year. Been on a lot of twisties all year round and does mostly street. No noise at all and quite low brake dust with plenty of bite. Though some ppl use them find them to be squeky on low speed though i haven't experienced this before.

Any price is acceptable and gonna change the pad in 2 months time.

Dunno how I missed this thead til now.

Snowy, what's the reasoning behind DS3000 front and DS2500 rear?

I have used:

Bendix advance - as dave says, fine for going up to the shops.

Bendix Ultimates - Nice and bitey, better than advance, chew through rotors like a fat man munching down on an old twix, wear out quickly, dusty, can be noisy.

Ferrodo DS2500 - long wearing, heat rotors pretty badly making it very easy to crack them, don't chew them though, cheap for performance pads, can be used on the street although an emergency stop when dead cold wont be too great, don't need much heat to negate this at all though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...