Brake Pads Users Ratings Guide

[PT]

thinking about some Endless SSS (can get full front/rear set ~$370)

DS2500 seem pretty expensive these days

basically after a pad for my daily that sees the track once every 4-6weeks, don't want a pad that takes alot of heat to get going

[Basti]

just a quick update on my rb74's. the levels of dust are good. not as good as oem but not crazy. the brake feel and bite i think are plenty for a pure street car like mine. they are extremely noisy atm tho. to the point where i try not to brake if possible, and sometimes i use the handbrake to stop myself. its embarrasing.

[gslrallysport]

basically after a pad for my daily that sees the track once every 4-6weeks, don't want a pad that takes alot of heat to get going

If dust isn't a concern, then Lucas will do that job. 650 degrees, in other words about 100 degrees better than Bendix Ultimate or about the same as Ferodo DS2500, whilst still being very much a street pad, ie. low rotor wear, cold performance etc. Lucas is what I use in my (albiet light) rally car. Also they're a very sacrificial pad, which means that they don't chew through rotors, and being such a cheap pad, are ideal for a car that gets regular (but light) track work.

For an S15, $60 for the fronts, $50 for the rears.

Also, make sure that you've got the best fluid available, as that's always the first weak link in any braking system.

Cheers,

Greg

[BDC70T]

If dust isn't a concern, then Lucas will do that job. 650 degrees, in other words about 100 degrees better than Bendix Ultimate or about the same as Ferodo DS2500, whilst still being very much a street pad, ie. low rotor wear, cold performance etc. Lucas is what I use in my (albiet light) rally car. Also they're a very sacrificial pad, which means that they don't chew through rotors, and being such a cheap pad, are ideal for a car that gets regular (but light) track work.

For an S15, $60 for the fronts, $50 for the rears.

Also, make sure that you've got the best fluid available, as that's always the first weak link in any braking system.

Cheers,

Greg

Where do you get lucas pads? Are they common? and is there a specific part/model number if they are going on a 33?

[gslrallysport]

Where do you get lucas pads?

GSL RallySport, among others! I've always got plenty of the Skyline and 200SX Lucas on the shelf. Most places that stock Lucas are a trade only (or retail for a stupid price) and don't tend to keep in stock Skyline pads anyway.

Are they common?

A few places can get them (not your supercheaps or repco's etc.) but more of your specific trade outlets. They're imported by ATAP, who are very trade only...

and is there a specific part/model number if they are going on a 33?

Na, Lucas pads are all the same. DB1170 and DB1220 provided you don't have the Brembo calipers...

[BRUNSKIGTST]

GSL RallySport, among others! I've always got plenty of the Skyline and 200SX Lucas on the shelf. Most places that stock Lucas are a trade only (or retail for a stupid price) and don't tend to keep in stock Skyline pads anyway.

A few places can get them (not your supercheaps or repco's etc.) but more of your specific trade outlets. They're imported by ATAP, who are very trade only...

Na, Lucas pads are all the same. DB1170 and DB1220 provided you don't have the Brembo calipers...

yea i bought my LUCAS pads from jetpilot thanks mate got them really quick :D:D:D:D:D 100 % happy with them, i had a quikck test with the pads had no squeaking at all, brake perfectly( although i put PENRITE "SIN" 600 to 700 boiling point no problem brakeing at really high speeds), took car to like 130 at this road although car got no windows on couldnt handle the win in my face fastest i went and brake at once it didint fail on me like brakeing at 130km/h was like nothin for the brakes awesome pad for me atm :D but gotta put good oil like jetpilot said so happy with them atm

[Simonster]

I've used RB74 with comp 2 rears. Very good pad, little dust and no noise what-so-ever. You guys complaining of noise, do you/have you machined the discs??

Very good street, ok track pad, pedal goes pretty long and this is the result after 2 tracks days with no street driving in between

As you can see the front left pad wore down and through the backing plate, and wore away the front rotor...which was bought new with the pads. No i couldn't tell while on the track

Rotors will now need replacing. Changing pads to TH10's

[subie]

Hi guys,

after a set of front pads for r32 , road use only and as less brake dust as possible

what wouls u recommend?

cheers

[gslrallysport]

Hi guys,

after a set of front pads for r32 , road use only and as less brake dust as possible

what wouls u recommend?

cheers

Something that's still reasonable performance though? QFM's HPX pads are very good on dust, whilst still being the same performance as something like a Bendix Ultimate. $75 per set front or rear... Or else just normal QFM's which also are VERY good on dust are $35 per set, but they are just a normal street pad, 450 degrees, nothing high performance.

[yld34t]

Hi guys, I currently use QFM Track Day pads front and rear in my R34 GTT which I use for Supersprints. I think they are rated to 650 degrees. These pads work extremely well - no fade lap after lap and work from dead cold so good for street too. I got them from Goran at Brakewest in Victoria. He is a good bloke who is very willing to give out advice - his prices are very reasonable too. I highly recommend the best brake fluid you can afford ( I use Lucas Grand Prix 600, boiling point of 300 degrees), braided lines and a master cylinder stopper bracket. PS I tried EBC Greens and they were absolute garbage. They didn't work very well and actually crumbled apart after 2 track days! Beware!

[gslrallysport]

Hi guys, I currently use QFM Track Day pads front and rear in my R34 GTT which I use for Supersprints. I think they are rated to 650 degrees.

The A1RM? Should be rated to 780...

I highly recommend the best brake fluid you can afford ( I use Lucas Grand Prix 600, boiling point of 300 degrees),

Yep, tis good stuff that Lucas Grand Prix 600!

[Simonster]

For those of you that have read Sydneykids assesment on different pads and their compounds, this may be of some interest.

I've just replaced my pads with the Hawk HT10 from and rear. This is the pad that Gary used for a number of years on his race cars before going to another compound.

Let me tell you these things are just brilliant. i ran them in last week, good bite from cold but man they keep getting better the hotter they get. Great pedal feel and lots of control. They kill the RB74's at all temp ranges.

Will try out at track day 5 April

Edited March 17, 2008 by Simonster

[Basti]

I've used RB74 with comp 2 rears. Very good pad, little dust and no noise what-so-ever. You guys complaining of noise, do you/have you machined the discs??

Very good street, ok track pad, pedal goes pretty long and this is the result after 2 tracks days with no street driving in between

As you can see the front left pad wore down and through the backing plate, and wore away the front rotor...which was bought new with the pads. No i couldn't tell while on the track

Rotors will now need replacing. Changing pads to TH10's

really? cos mine are doing the bansee every single time i touch the pedal. worse when warm. racebrakes are checking them out for me soon. will update

[Simonster]

really? cos mine are doing the bansee every single time i touch the pedal. worse when warm. racebrakes are checking them out for me soon. will update

Yes, replaced them twice, never had any noise from them!

[BHDave]

went through my 3rd set of rear pads at the track. lockheed delphi or delphi lockheed 50-550 rated pads went from 95% to metal in 4 sessions at wakefield.

felt nice, but rubbish all the same if they can't last a day. ferodo zeros last 2 days atleast and are under half the price and constantly in stock at supercheap

front project Mu HC+ 6 track days and counting still around 50% pad left. Out brake anything of similar weight (except a mate with a sil80 and the same pads). Still can't fault them.

I'd be interested to hear if anyone is getting decent life out of another pad on the rear as i am about to buy some more rears and the HC+ is top of the list atm

[Risking]

I had HC's in my old front brakes they worked fine with the DBA 5000 rotors. They were superior to the EBC greenstuff and the DS3000's. However the Hawk HT10's I thought were better.

In the new EVO brembos im currently using the same 5000series rotors but have completed one day with TRW lucas pads and they are brilliant. My car is fairly light by GTR standards and for the cost I really cant complain. I did switch them out for a pair of HT10's half way through the day and obviously found the hawks to be a better pad but the Lucas did not break apart or fad. I do have substancial brake ducting which would help as well. For normal track days ill be using the Lucas but for the faster stuff ill switch back to the Hawk's

Dave id seriosuly consider the TRW lucas pads for the rear. I have had a set in the rear for 6 days now and still 50% remaining. Ive never had any dramas with my rear brakes and for the price it cant hurt to try them.

[BHDave]

Sounds good.

Any leads on a local supplier? and cost?

[evil_weevil]

Brad and Dave,

You thoughts on my car?

My set up currently.. DBA 4000 slotted all round, braided lines, martini fluid.

I have used benedict ultimates for a while, Im still happy with them! Just thought maybe time to change and give something else a try?

Cheers boys!

[Risking]

As for local suppliers Martins clutch and brake can get them but Ive found ABS in kirawee to be way way cheaper than martins (in the vacinity of 30% cheaper!!)

I bought the front pair for my Brembos for $80 bucks and the rears were $50.

If you want ill see what they can do 2 sets of skyline rears for as Jess is needing a pair soon as well.

Jess' GTR had them fitted when she did a 30min session last time we were at wakefield. She had absolutly no pedal fad and was doing 1.14's through out the entire session.

The Hawks I have also found ABS to be decently priced but through my old man I have a contact in the states who gets them cheaper but takes longer to receive obviously. If I have enough lead time I buy from the US but if not then ABS get my business.

Chris if I was you id be looking at the UAS calliper adaptors to suit larger rotors. This way you could buy some better 2 piece 5000 series or similar, otherwise your car seemed to stop pretty well over the weekend. If the ultimates are working for you then id keep using them, however your going to get to a point where your entry speeds will be much faster and the pads will start to get far to hot hence the need to upgrade to a "hotter" pad. If you want to try a few different pads your more than welcome to go through my collection. A lot of them still have 60-70% remaining form when I was using the stock callipers. Ive got alot of different brands which you can trial till you find something that works.

We plan to do the exact same thing to Jess' car shortly, Ill make my own adaptors and run a 330mm rotor with Lucas pads.

Edited March 30, 2008 by Risking

[Risking]

next time were out Chris ill have the pyrometer and infa red thermometer. Its really handy for checked rotor temps at the end of a session.

Actually you should have those heat indicators on your DBA's?? Un acurate I know but could give you an idea.