Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm about to get my S2 Stagea in the next week or so, just wondering if anyone has tried seat covers for theirs. If so what type and where did you get them, online or around Adelaide. Looking to get front and rear seat as well, the 2yr old still doesn't quite know the meaning of "I've just vacuumed!"

Are these AMR seats any good for the Stagea seats??

Link

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170033-stagea-s2/
Share on other sites

Anyone used seat covers on their Stag's?

lol, just stick on whatever takes your fancy, i prefer lambswool, theres leatherette ones on here somewhere that looked good or if you like the real thing auto trim ultimate @ sth melb

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170033-stagea-s2/#findComment-3150409
Share on other sites

There was a group buy last year sometime for Leatherette seat covers. $400 if I remember correctly - for the lot, including headrests. Bit expensive compared to other options maybe but IMO they looked pretty good. personal taste though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170033-stagea-s2/#findComment-3151818
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
    • I’ll have more of a look into Recaros over the weekend. It’s taken me 2 days to figure out which Bride seats suit my application haha.
    • I am aware of their presence, but the product page looked like that conversion will eliminate the AWD capability. Fact remains it's kind of a hassle to send my oil sump halfway around the world and buying an extra one is expensive and unnecessary. Before I go hat route I'd explore more local options.    Would you recommend I just pull the engine and renew as many things as possible since I'm already having problems with some leaks? Would have to get an engine crane first though.
    • Are there any indicators that the vehicle is in limp mode?  Any dash light, or something.  Or is it just lack of acceleration?
×
×
  • Create New...