Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Recently I have discovered that the standard RB26 injectors are leaking. The leak is coming from the injector casing so it can't be repaired and new seals will not fix it. This leaves me with the choice of getting some standard RB26 injectors (440cc) or upgrading now to higher flowing injectors for the future.

I don't know whether or not a standard GT-R ECU will be able to handle the differences though. So, what is the max size I could go to with aftermarket injectors that will still work with the ECU?

Cheers

<--- PS. How do I change the engine type under my avatar

Edited by Slim Mat
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170167-injector-size-recommendations/
Share on other sites

My tuner once said he had a customer that ran 600's in his 33gtr on a standard ecu. They dyno'd it with the 600's and it was a little on the rich but thought it would be ok, 2weeks later the aftermarket computer arrived they checked the tune again with the standard ecu and it ran near perfect mixtures everywhere. In saying that it would be advisable to check the state of tune before going to silly with it. Ryan

Edited by Ryan1200

ANY ECU opens the injector at a certain percentage at a certain load point.

It doesn't care what injector is there it just does the % it's programmed to do at certain loads.

If the ECU works the 440cc injector at 40% at load X (approx 176cc/min)

It will still open a 740cc injector at 40% (approx 296cc/min) at the same load point unless you remap/reprogramm your ECU to tell it otherwise.

O2 feedback is only a fuel trim, of 2 or 3%, and only works in certain load cells. It also doesn't self learn, as the computer wont lean out the whole fuel map, just every time it goes into closed loop, which is mainly in running temp, cruise conditions it will try to pull fuel out, but it cant trim anywhere near enough out to compensate for bigger injectors

Fullload afr's are ok slightly on the rich side. He said the cruise light load mixture was alot better than when it left maybe the 2 to 3 percent was enough. Or yes the car may have had a reprogamed chip i guess but it was strange he said the tune was rich then 2weeks later wasn't too bad.

Edited by Ryan1200

Yeah, car ECU's can learn/reprogram fuel trims like Adriano was saying. I was hoping that that would be enough, with an ECU reset (deletes fuel trims and relearns all data), but, it seems that Adriano is saying that it won't be enough and will only work slightly at some times.

Thanks for a better explanation guys.

So has anyone got some GT-R injectors laying around? Don't need full set even.

<--- P.S Has anyone figured out how to change that bloody engine type under my pic?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
    • I actually have an aftermarket hanger, the detschwerks x1 hanger, but my dw420 has never really sat in it correctly, good to know I can just modify it a bit to suit. Yeah cheers man will definitely have a play with it and hope it solves my dramas.
    • Seriously though, it's the Shaft Autoservice high mount rear spoiler: https://az-style.shop/items/5ffaad5a72eb464137a6edb1
×
×
  • Create New...